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Guess what I got? A Hyperpak
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54474		 Page 6 of 7
Author:  olafla [ Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:26 pm ]
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I am now starting to wonder how many sets of the exhaust manifolds are really out there? I know there isn't that many.
Insterestingly, among some photos in a thread from member Diego in Argentina, slant 6 turbocharge / EFI from ARGENTINA, there were some pics from the paintbooth, and I couldn't help noticing a familiar looking exhaust manifold hanging from a hook. I cannot see the photo among those in the thread now, but I have kept a copy of the address to it, I hope Diego forgives me for sharing it:

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/2773/30062012083.jpg

I sent him an email and asked if it was one half of the hyperpak manifold setup, and he confirmed that it was. I have unfortunately lost the exact conversation we had on email, but he said that these manifolds were used on a number of models, and not only hyperpak-equipped cars. They may have been in regular production in Argentina.
Can anyone familiar with the south-american mopar scene, or have access to argentinian mopar parts catalogs, please comment on that?

Olaf
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:06 pm ]
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The Argentinian front-3 exhaust manifold is not a Hyper Pak piece. It is a totally different casting with a different part number. Runner and flange placement and shape on the Argentinian manifold leaves room for things like power steering and air conditioning

This manifold was used in Argentina only, on the Valiant GT. The Valiant III GT had a 1963 Dart body; this was updated for the Valiant IV with 1966 Dart front end sheetmetal, deck lid, and taillamps. Both models had "Valiant" badging, a 4-speed transmission, and other local-to-Argentina modifications. The induction was via a twin-carb setup similar to the Offenhauser, but not quite identical. Official horsepower was 180. The rear 3 exhausted through a cut/capped ordinary slant-6 exhaust manifold with intake heat and automatic choke provisions, just like the rear half of a set of Dutra Duals. A similar powertrain configuration was also used on Dodge R/T models that came after the Valiant IV in Argentina.

Here's my NOS unit:

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Author:  Reed [ Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:12 pm ]
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Image
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:04 pm ]
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Wow.

Learning New Stuff every day.


Greg
Author:  olafla [ Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:04 pm ]
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Thank you for clearing that up.
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Runner and flange placement and shape on the Argentinian manifold leaves room for things like power steering and air conditioning
That makes it just as attractive as the hyperpak on a street car. Looking at the pics side by side, the hyperpak has more gracefully flowing runners to it, and maybe fractionally better resulting flow, or more evenly distributed flow.

3D printing a set of alternatives, and flow testing the plastic versions would give an answer to that question. :D

Rick, I hope you don't feel I took over your thread, that was not intended.

Olaf
Author:  Reed [ Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:51 pm ]
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Image

:mrgreen:

That manifold is awesome.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Fri Nov 14, 2014 5:39 pm ]
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Here are some pics of the Hyperpak Exhausts manifolds in my 65 Valiant. I also mounted the new super mini starter and it has plenty of room. There is one small issue with the starter though. In addition to drilling out the one tapped hole (which we already knew) When you put the stater in place it hits the bolt head just beside the top mounting stud. I will likely get a countersunk allen head bolt for in there. It could probably be left out since I am running the brace from the block to the transmission that lots of folks leave off.

Manifolds look good and do have plenty of room with the new starter,
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Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Nov 15, 2014 1:50 pm ]
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Went to the hardware store and they had a countersunk allen head bold in 3/8" that worked great for the bolt that the starter was hitting. I took a 5/8" drill bit and beveled the bolt hole until it sat flush when bolted up.

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Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Nov 16, 2014 1:45 am ]
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:D
Author:  Romeo Furio [ Sun Nov 16, 2014 6:01 am ]
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Good info, Thanks !
Author:  Dart270 [ Sun Nov 16, 2014 5:13 pm ]
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WOW, those manifolds look great, as does the starter. Thanks for sharing and working on the manifolds, Rick.

Lou
Author:  buicker [ Thu May 14, 2015 6:59 pm ]
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Is there different starter for slant sixe's?
I am actually trying to switch to a mini starter on my fury, so far I tried a 1991 dakota 318 cu.in. that some said would fit, but it would not catch, it just turn frelly.
So I went for BPE5200 lightweigth starter for Bouchillon Performance wich by the costed me an arm and a leg after transport,custom and money exchange, still same problem.(even though they say it fit slant six)

I didn't had time to check wether the nose isn't long enough or the starter would be too far from the ring gear,

What I found so far is that some dodge truck from the sixty's would have had a different transmission that needed a different starter.
All I know is when I bought the car the motor had been changed, but don't know anything else.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu May 14, 2015 7:29 pm ]
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Quote:
Is there different starter for slant sixe's?
I am actually trying to switch to a mini starter on my fury, so far I tried a 1991 dakota 318 cu.in. that some said would fit, but it would not catch, it just turn frelly.
The Canadian Slant-6 cars through 1966 use a direct-drive starter with a 9-tooth drive pinion, similar to the starter used on '60-'61 US slant-6s. The bolt pattern is the same as the 10-tooth '62-up US ('67-up Canada) gear-reduction starter, but the ring gear diameter is different, A gear-reduction starter that will work on a '62-up US car or a '67-up Canada car, whether it is a Chrysler-built starter or a late-model mini starter, will not work on a '62-'66 Canadian car.

If you want to use a mini starter on your '65, you can either swap in a US '62-'67 or Canadian '67 torque converter, or send me a PM and I will sell you my last custom-made 9-tooth drive pinion for the '91 Dakota 318 mini starter you have. You swap this pinion into your mini starter in place of the 10-tooth drive pinion (it fits the legitimate/real Denso mini starters; no guarantee on whether it fits the Chinese knockoff junk). You will also have to add a starter relay, but this is not difficult and the relay is easily available.
Author:  buicker [ Fri May 15, 2015 2:06 pm ]
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thank's for your answer Slantsixdan.
From what I understand, the pinion drive has to be change from a 10 tooth to a 9 tooth to fit .
Is it beause the 9 tooth gear is bigger then a 10 tooth?That would make it to catch on the ring gear.
And why do I have to install a starter relay ?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri May 15, 2015 2:58 pm ]
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the pinion drive has to be change from a 10 tooth to a 9 tooth to fit .
Correct.
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Is it beause the 9 tooth gear is bigger then a 10 tooth?
Smaller. What's actually happening is the 10-tooth gear is abutting the face of the ring gear (which is a larger diameter on your Canadian car than on an American car), hence no engagement.
Quote:
And why do I have to install a starter relay ?
Because the original starter had a solenoid on top of it that served the purpose, and if you just hook up the existing wire to the starter directly, you will pull too much current through the ignition switch and wiring, damaging it.
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