Ok fellas here has been my experience with the module, coil, and bracket that SSD shows in his HEI sticky.

First of all the module pictured there will not fire through my electronic distributer, I beileve it is for a distributerless ignition(the truck I pulled it from didn't have a distributer). My next step was to use the older style "C" shaped 4 pin module. It worked great for a couple hours until today when the coil decided to start smoking modules. The Vert just stopped running. I got a ride home, picked up my spare module, went back to the car, swapped modules, and she fired for about 30 seconds and died again. I went back home and pulled the coil and module off of my Swinger, went back to the dead Vert, swapped both out, fired it up, and came back home. Now it could just coincidence be that I got a bum coil that had a few hours of life left and/or both my modules were on the verge of dying...
However I personally do not recomend the coil/module/bracket off of 96-00 GM gasoline powered rear wheel drive trucks. I will stick to a module I pull from a distributer and an aftermarket high energy coil.

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70valiant'
Do you have the module grounded good, I ran a ground wire to the alternator to ground it , and it seems to be working OK.
Good Luck

Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Hey Dave, which module are you using? A four pin with Metri-Pack connector or the module with separate terminals on the right and left sides?

Did yours not work before grounding it to the alt?
If it isn't grounded it will not work. What is the diffefence between grounded and "grounded good", somthing is either grounded or it isn't.
I personally do not believe the newer style coil is compatible with the older style module.

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HardCharger,
I have the older 4 pin module , the one with two pins on each side.


70valiant',
I was just trying to be helpful. I guess grounded good would be ,that it is secured well to the ground . I hope you find something that works for you.

Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

I currently have a huge NAPA echlin coil with an older style 4 pin HEI module, both of I have been using for years. If you look at the first page of this thread you can see the picture of this setup from January of 2006, at that time I had been running that setup for over two years.
Next trip to Harry's U-Pull-It I will be looking for a module (well actually 3 so I have 2 spares) that I pull from inside distrbuters and the coil from the same vehicle, then start over with the convertable.

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The coil you really want is the HEI coil from an 80 GMC truck with a 250 six cylinder . Its HEI and meant for 120 degree firing order. This coil mounts separately from the dist on the GMC six. It is rather large and has a nice mount that puts it on the side of the /6 near the dist. It looks like a big Accel unit.

the 96-00 trucks used the dreaded opti spark.....

A better truck coil is the 87-95 TBI coil that works with both the 7 pin and 4 pin modules.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

A coil meant for 120° firing order? Really? Care to elaborate on the differences between a coil for a 6 cylinder and an 8? A 6 cylinder spinning 4k RPM has just as many sparks per second as an 8 turning 3k RPM.

Opti-spark distributors aren't very good, but the coil they used was like any other external coil and distributor arrangement GM used.

What truck used Opti-spark? What engine other than the passenger car LT1 used Opti-spark? Trucks used conventional distributors up until the LS series engine was introduced which used one coil per cylinder.

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Joshua

I had to buy the module LX301 with right and left side connectors. As far as I know the newer style module with the Metri-Pack connector will not work and I have yet to hear from anyone using the newer style module and having it work OK.

I think Dan's how to HEI should be changed to clarify that and the picture instructions detailing the Metri-Pack newer module wiring should be eliminated so that others are not led astray.

I just got new stuff for HEIing the Swinger so I have a module and coil for BOTH of my MOPARS.
I found this setup in a Pontiac T1000(Chevette). I left the coil and module connected until I got home then removed the plastic cover, it made it easier to ensure I didnt mix up wires. There are 2 wires going to the coil. The white gets power from the ignition and the black will power a tach. I am not leaving the tach in the car when I sell it so I cut it just long enough so I can tell the next owner what it can be used for and they can then decide weather they want to use it or not. Any way here is a pic. I hope this is helpful.

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Hello All,
When i did this mod, I changed out the distributor and replaced with an electronic version that was recommended. This was a NOS. Are there meant to be any O-rings on the shaft area? The one that was removed didn't have any either, but there has always been a leak around that area. I am sorta putting 2+2 together and after a few months coming up with 4...
Any advice would be greatfully recieved

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You can’t teach experience

2+2=O Ring
Yes sir should be an O ring on the dizzy shaft,don't have a size or part number but someone will jump in with that info.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Thanks 6shotvanner.

I think I will post the question elsewhere to see if the part number can be quoted...
Thanks again

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You can’t teach experience

I recently did the HEI swap on my brother's 83 van with a 225. I used an E-core coil from an 89 Ford van (351 motor).

How do I wire in a noise suppressor for the radio? My brother says he gets bad feedback through the radio when he accelerates. Can I use the factory noise suppressor and just wire it to the (-) lead on the coil?

Also, after I did the switch the cheapo aftermarket tach I installed in his van started reading about 300 RPM too high and occasionally bounces up to around 1600 RPM at idle. The motor still idles at around 750-800 RPM at idle and is steady. Do i just have a crappy tachometer?

I just tried to install HEI on my car, and I have everything hooked up right, except that when you try to start it, it idles badly and if you hit the gas it stumbles and sends a column of smoke out the carb, then dies. So I switched the two wires that go from the module to the dist around, it will not start and sends smoke out the carb. Maybe I got the wrong module? Its from an 80 Monte Carlo 5.7L

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels