I was thinking "JCA has sticking valves and bent pushrods" as I drove home to Vancouver this afternoon.
Agreed.
Good -- that'll give you the opportunity to have the rocker shaft and arms boiled out.
Neither, nor. Unstick the valves, clean the rocker assembly, replace the valve stem seals, replace the bent pushrods (check them all by rolling them on a sheet of dead-flat plate glass), and put it all back together.
Probably not.
Yes and yes and yes.
Whoah, stop! You're getting way ahead of yourself. Most of this what you say you're going to do, probably doesn't need to be done.

Sounds like you already found my old post about how to unstick valves and replace valve stem seals without an air compressor. AeroKroil is a terrific penetrant. The other highly effective penetrant in my arsenal, totally different from any other, is Chrysler p/n 4318039AC (the last two letters periodically change; a good dealer parts man will either give you a can of -AC or advise the newest letter update and give you a can of that). Suggest you pick up a can of it ASAP.
Sounds like you're well on the way to unsticking them. Keep flushing with penetrants and solvents and eventually you'll get there without "major surgery" (removing head, etc.)
None of these will harm anything.

The "rubber boots" are the valve stem seals. They're under the valve springs, and yours are almost certainly crispy-crunchy and broken (or just plain missing). Take the opportunity to replace them! Maybe you didn't find the post I thought you'd found. It's here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Mr. OF,
AeroKroil is a very fine penetrating oil. By KANO Laboratories. For more information:

http://www.kanolabs.com
Am more of a mind to think that they were NOT sticking until the Engine was run for a while, and then let sit over night when all the OLD Gasoline Residue that had gotten up into the Valve Guides solidified. Then as soon as the Engine was cranked the next morning, some of the Valves didn't stick, but obviously three did. Solidly enough to bend the PushRods.
Right. Just went out to get the can of AeroKroil, and while there checked on the Number 4 Intake Valve. It is back at the same height as the Number 4 Exhaust Valve. Tapped it with the Ball Peen Hammer and it doesn't spring. It has a solid feel.
GREAT. Have been told that Lacquer Thinner promotes rust. Am thinking more along the lines of Acetone.
Have looked for the Valve Stem Seals, but am going to have to get out the 10X Magnifying Head Set, and flashlight to see them.
Thanks for the encouragement.

The next step while keeping the Valves soaked with whatever can be gotten will be to drop the Gas Tank. Some time back that was looked at, but decided that it was too much of a task to do. That's why it didn't get done at that time. THAT is no longer an option. It HAS to come down and be cleaned out. We'll get into how to do THAT once the Tank is out of Lorrie.

Anyway, thanks for the response and comments. Will keep you posted.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Daniel,
Alright.
That's encouraging.
Wouldn't unsticking them just be temporary? Wouldn't the next time that they get heated up, the stuff between the Stems and the Guides would just stick them AGAIN once the Engine cooled? Wouldn't the OLD Gasoline Residue HAVE to be TOTALLY cleaned out from between the Stems and Guides?
Alright.
This will entail obtaining the specified Spring Compressor.
Alright.
Alright.
Hopefully, but have some amount of trepidations about this.
It was my first inclination.
Actually, I hadn't.
The problem with that is that there isn't a MOPAR dealer in the area. Would probably have to go to Huntsville, Texas which is 33 miles West of here.
Hopefully your optimism will prove to be the reality.

Am pretty sure that the Valve Stem Seals are keeping the Penetrants from getting down into the spaces between the Valve Stems and the Guides.

Once the Valves Springs are compressed, the Keepers, Springs, and the Valve Stem Seals are removed, hopefully the penetrant oils and solvents will be able to get to the OLD Gasoline Residue dissolved in a more efficacious manner.
Alright.
Alright.
Have read this already this morning. Pretty slick.

Have some questions concerning it, but will ask them later when actually involved in doing the procedure outlined.

This morning, am going to see if Lorrie's Gas Tank can be extracted. I'm here by myself and may need some help with it. Will have to figure out how to do THAT next.

Anyway Daniel, thanks for information. It is much appreciated. Will keep you posted.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Tuesday Morning Update:

Lorrie's Gas Tank is sitting on the ground next to Lorrie!

What was feared to be an almost impossible task turned out to be but a piece of cake, taking only about a half an hour to do!

Had to cut one hose (BTW, ALL the Hoses are rotted), and take two 9/16" Nuts off of their Bolts, carefully bend the Straps that the secured back, and the whole Fuel Tank gently lowered to the ground!

When this task was originally perused, it looked to be impossible. Bolts/Nuts in places that on could only touched with one's fingertips. Hose Clamps with the Screw facing a Body Panel but a fracting of an inch away. And many more really dumb places to access. It was obvious that the Fuel Tank was put on the Chassis BEFORE putting on the Body.

BTW, Lorrie's two Sliding Doors were put in place before the Roof was attached. Consequently, there is absolutely no way to remove the Doors without taking the Roof off!

But back to the Fuel Tank.

The Fuel Level Sending Unit is going to be removed.

The outside of the Fuel Tank is going to get cleaned and perpared for painting.

Then it will be time to clean the insideof the Tank.

Am thinking that when the Fuel Sending Unit is removed that there will be a quite large diameter hole through which one can reach to to scour the whole inside of the Tank.

Had it been known that it was going to be this easy, it would have gotten done BEFORE starting Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine, and this problem with the Valves/Pushrods could have all be avoided.

Alas, hindsight is 20/20.

As for the sticking Valves: The Number 1 Intake Valve is slightly springy. The Number 4 Intake Valve was up to the same level as the Number 4 Exhaust Valve, but is still stuck semi-solid, for when it is tapped with the Ball Peen Hammer is goes down 1/4", stays there, and it takes a couple of hours to return to the same level as the Number 4 Exhaust Valve.

Anyway, am going to go remove the Fuel Level Sending Unit.

Will keep you all posted.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Use fuel injection hose, marked "30R9". It's safer and holds up better with today's fuel formulations than the lower-grade carb-type line marked 30R7. Make sure to use the correct fuel injection hose clamps. Only if your hands and arms are sized for a 6-year-old. The usual techniques are to have a radiator shop boil the tank out, or to put a bunch of chains or clean small hard garden rocks into the tank with some appropriately strong (therefore nasty and hard to get rid of safely) solvent, cover the holes and shake the tank vigorously to clean up the crud, then empty and flush out the tank, then apply fuel tank sealer.

The radiator shop technique is going to be much easier.
Only if you quit before the job's done. You're probably right that the remains of the valve stem seals are blocking penetrant on its way to the valve stem/guide junction. Use two small screwdrivers to poke at the seals until they break and fall away, or if by some miracle they're still soft enough to resist that, use one small screwdriver or a dental pick to lift up the seal while you spray your solvent/penetrant at the junction.

As for no Mopar dealer nearby: that's why sites like chryslerpartsdirect.com are for.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Daniel,
The hose that was cut is only about a foot long. Goes FROM the Gas Tank Outlet Tube to the Metal Fuel Tube that goes TO the Fuel Pump.

There are also a couple of large diameter Hose sections about 6" long that connect the Filler Tube that holds the Gas Cap TO a section of the same large diameter metal Tube with a 90 degree bend. Then the other end of the 90 degree bent Tube has another section of large diameter Hose that connects to the large diameter Inlet Tube on the Tank.
Alright.
You're right. Just got the impression that the Fuel Sender Flange was larger, but it isn't.

The Fuel Sending Unit has been extracted from the Gas Tank.

Will be testing it to see if it works. May need some help figuring out how to do that.
There's a REALLY good Radiator Shop in Livingston. He's done work for me before.
Have done some research on this subject. Seems that the BEST way, is to have it done at a Radiator Shop. The other ways require disposal of chemicals. One can take stuff to the Wal*Mart and they dispose of stuff, for free (I think).
Right. Am going to call the guy to see what it's going to cost.
Won't stop till everything is working properly.
It seems obvious.
Remember that there are on hand here a couple of Glass Hypodermic Syringes with really sharp Needles that could probably penetrate and inject the Solvents THROUGH the Valve Stem Seals.
Alright.

Well, for an update on progress so far today, see the next post.

Thanks for the tips.

Hope YOU are well.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Tuesday Afternoon Update:

Lorrie's Gas Tank has been emptied of a nasty looking reddish brown liquid. It's a wonder that she even ran at all on that stuff.

The contents of the Tank were emptied into a big porcelain Kettle, and then transferred to a five gallon Gas Can with a large ladle and funnel.

In the bottom of the porcelain Kettle was left a goodly amount of reddish brown sediment. It's not rust because it doesn't stick to a magnet. After the Gasoline evaporated from it, it feels like soot.

All the Hoses were removed from their respective Metal Tubes.

The Outlet Tube was removed from its fitting.

The Fuel Level Sending Unit was removed, and the Brass Float separated from the Rod.

The Fuel Tank components are now completely disassembled, and are ready to be cleaned.

In the mean time, the work to free the Valves in their Guides continues apace.

Will be going to Livingston on Thursday, May 3, 2012.

Will take the Gas Tank to the Radiator Shop for cleaning. Will be seeing if the proper Valve Spring Removal Tool is available (and affordable).

Will be calling NAPA to see if NEW Push Rods are available (and affordable).

So now it's back out to clean the Fuel Level Sending Unit and all the Tubes and fittings, and continuing to see if the Valves will free up.

Will keep you all posted.

Hope this finds YOU all doing well.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

I have a "bucket-full" of used SL6 pushrods if you want to go that way.
Send me a PM if interested.
DD

Hey Doc,
Was reading one of Daniel's references about a fellow who thought he had a 170cid Slant Six, and it turned out to be a 225 Slant Six, and they were talking about the length of the Pushrods. Went and measured the Pushrods out of Lorrie and they are 10" long. Is that correct?

Also, Daniel mentioned that there are oil passages in the Rocker Arms, and if I remember correctly, the Pushrods are also hollow and have an orifice at each end to let oil come up from the Lifters to the Rocker Arms.

Checked on Lorrie's Pushrods, and it appears that there IS an orifice at each end, but none of them permit air through when they are blown on.

Have looked up Dodge 225 Slant Six Pushrods and they are only $4.00 each. A whole set of NEW ones would only be a little more than $50.00.
Alright.

Thanks for the response.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

I only have used pushrods for the solid lifter SL6. (one end has a cup, the other has a "ball".
Do the rocker arms have adjuster screws?
DD

Hey Doc,
That's also the way Lorrie's Pushrods are.
YES. Lorrie has Solid Lifters and Adjustable Rocker Arms.

So maybe Lorrie's Pushrods are NOT clogged up as was feared.

Doc, there's so much I don't know about all this.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Tuesday Evening Update:

Have some GOOD news:

Was out earlier messing with the stuck Valves.

Hit the Number 4 Intake Valve, driving it down as far as the Spring would let it go, and it came back up in about three minutes.

Spritzed it with AeroKroil, and did it again.

Again it came up in about three minutes.

Spritzed it again with AeroKroil, and drove it down as far as the Spring would allow, and it sat there for about thirty seconds and then all of a sudden it POPPED back up!

Then when it was hit with the hammer, it was springy like the other unstuck valves!

Am going to be doing the Number 1 Intake Valve the same way. Am hoping it will do what the Number 4 Intake Valve did.

As was mentioned previously, will be going to Livingston on Thursday. Taking the Fuel Tank and the two Metal Filler Pipes to the Ben Nettles' Radiator Shop to have everything boiled out.

Am going to get the a sufficient amount of Rubber Hose at NAPA to connect the Filler Tubes together and to the Gas Tank.

Am going to order a full set of NEW Pushrods, and a full set of Valve Stem Seals from NAPA.

Am going to test the Fuel Level Sending Unit tomorrow to see if it is working. If it is, will reinstall it. If it is NOT, will order a NEW Sending Unit on Thursday. Don't know EXACTLY how to test the Unit, but will have to figure it out.

The Brass Float that was on the Sending Unit has a hole in it. If the Sending Unit works, am wondering if one can get just the Brass Float by itself.

Am going to see if a Valve Spring Compressor is available and if it is, will purchase it.

Anyway, the day is ending on a better note than that on which it began.

Was dreading the taking down of the Fuel Tank. It was the first thing thought of this morning. But once the task was started, it turned out to be really easy. Lorrie will be sooo happy with a nice clean Fuel Tank and no more stuck Valves.

Will install the NEWLY cleaned Gas Tank, put in NEW Gasoline, take the Bendix Stromberg Carburetor off of the Intake Manifold and drain it, then run all the OLD Gasoline out of the Fuel Line into a container by cranking the Engine with the Starter before hooking the Fuel Line to the Carburetor. That way Lorrie will never again have any OLD Gasoline in her Cylinders.

Am going to call it a day.

Hope this finds everyone doing well.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B
Strainer for end of fuel pickup pipe: GM P/N 5651 705
Sender gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475
Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dang, reminds me of a song, by Johnny Cash...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Hey All, Called the Radiator Shop in Livingston and asked how much he (Ben Nettles) would charge to boil out Lorrie's Fuel Tank, and he said that the Environmental Protection Agency's regulations for the use of caustic materials got to be so strident and convoluted that no one in the area does that any more!
Ben recommended taking Lorrie's Fuel tank to the local Car wash and washing it out with the pressure and detergent. Then to put some chains into the Tank and shake it around. Then apply Fuel Tank Sealer.

So it looks as though this last procedure is what is going to get done.

Called NAPA this morning, about Push Rods and Valve Stem Seals. Was told that they don't have them and they can't get them!

Have yet to call AutoZone and O'Reilly Auto Parts, but they are usually less apt to have stuff than is NAPA.

This all comes under the heading of: "Why can't anything be easy?"

Nonetheless, the chewing on the on this mouthful of mule meat continues apace.

Hope this finds YOU all doing well.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor