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| Author: | the_engineers [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:15 am ] |
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Absolutely stunning in every way. Do you have details that you can share about the long block? Head work? Piston selection? Cam? Compression? Long/Std Rods? Did I miss these somewhere? |
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| Author: | Thomas S [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:51 am ] |
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Thanks Kev, My boost pressure was also rock solid before. I will try without the extension pipe . Or try with a bigger size. |
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| Author: | Thomas S [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:16 pm ] |
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Quote: Do you have details that you can share about the long block? Head work? Piston selection? Cam? Compression? Long/Std Rods? Did I miss these somewhere? Her is some big secrets.. The block is bored 0.60 with standard pistons. Just little bigger end gap. I also did a o ring job with stainless rings together with the Aussiespeed big bore gasket. The rods are the stock one. The head is ported by myself, with engine builder oversize valves, bronse valve guides and harder valvesprings. The head is shaved 0.059 inches, (ment for a NA engine ) but after porting the chambers i have checked the chamber size, and it was about 50- 52 cc. I think its about 8.5- 9:1 in compression ratio. when i checked the compression pressure it was 150 psi when the block was still empty i put the head on and turned it upside down. And with a lamp and small mirror i checked and ported the head around the chamber so it perfectly matched the bores. And i also had to touch the cylinder bore, because of little to much valve unscrouding at the head... The runners in the head is ported slightly bigger than stock gasket holes,also into the intake as far as i could reach. about 2 inches. The intake and head also have dowels and holes to make sure of the exact possition. My exhaust manifold are the stock cast iron , but ported and modified. Here is the flow diagram for the head 28" Stock in out 0.100 54 - 51 0.200 95 - 84 0.300 123- 99 0.400 131- 105 0.500 136- 107 ported 0.100 69- 54 0.200 115- 94 0.300 156- 121 0.400 169- 137 0.500 173- 140 The camshaft is a Howard stock 256 220@ 0.473 lift with 110 lsa The exhaust system is 3 inch from the turbo, and then it splits into two 2 1/2 and go into the muffler. The last part over the rear axle is a single 3 inch pipe. Quite free flowing. Hope there was anything interesting . Its Always fun to see engine - car build spec Have a nice day or night.. Thomas |
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| Author: | Thomas S [ Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:29 am ] |
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More pics , heatshield again The shields have helped alot to lower the temperature at the intake. ![]()
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| Author: | Thomas S [ Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:29 am ] |
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Hi slanters, I am soon finish with my "new" engine. I had problem with a crack in the block. Tried to weld it but it was expanding . Never ending problem.. But now i have a new bored fresh block. I use my old piston ( aftermarked )and rods with new rings, I have done some improvements to, in the oil pan for example. [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/067_zpsnmntouum.jpg[/img][/img] I hope it can keep the oil were i want it.. Here are some pics of my new exhaust, without any need for welding ( in the cast parts) [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/028_zpsss2hrgxb.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/030_zps2wvrlv40.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/032_zpstydypt6a.jpg[/img][/img] A pics from the inside of the cylinder.. [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/051_zpspmdnbfna.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/057_zps7zb2z8hg.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/060_zpsa6wyzoxk.jpg[/img][/img] As you now the piston in the slant 6 stops quite far down in the bore. So its no problem to use that for unschrouding . The valve ( oversize enginebuilder ) is quite close to the cylinder wall, so i think this will improve the flow The head gasket on the pics its the big bore from Aussiespeed I had this improvement also on my present Engine, and it was running very good.. Here are one pics at the injector in the runner [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/044_zpsqkl0ejox.jpg[/img][/img] New rims (homemade) Its 8*15 from a Chevy van. I cut loose the center and turned it insideout. and weld it back were i wanted it [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/023_zpsyajfr2u7.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/027_zpsdmmydjzx.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/026_zpsdh4tyb47.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/040_zpsnezjp6n8.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/039_zpsjqe0b9fv.jpg[/img][/img] Have a nice day Thomas |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:43 am ] |
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Looks great, Thomas. I may copy your "no weld" exhaust manifold-to-turbo solution. Slant on, Lou |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:35 pm ] |
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Nice Fab Work on the Oil Pan also! Greg |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:06 am ] |
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Observation: I always take a lot of care to make sure the oil can easily flow back down to the sump, by angling the baffles down from all directions. I looks like especially the rear baffle may trap oil from flowing back down, and possibly the front and right side baffles to a lesser extent. Remember that the pan rail angles downward from front to rear. BTW, I am helping with a Land Speed Racing turbo 170 build and forwarded your pics to my friend who is working on a stock exh manifold for that. Very nice work and pics - thank you. Happy building, Lou |
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| Author: | Thomas S [ Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:55 am ] |
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Quote: Observation: I always take a lot of care to make sure the oil can easily flow back down to the sump, by angling the baffles down from all directions. I looks like especially the rear baffle may trap oil from flowing back down, and possibly the front and right side baffles to a lesser extent. Remember that the pan rail angles downward from front to rear.
Hi LouBTW, I am helping with a Land Speed Racing turbo 170 build and forwarded your pics to my friend who is working on a stock exh manifold for that. Very nice work and pics - thank you. Happy building, Lou Thanks for your opinion, I will think about it , Its not easy to get a view of whats happening there when the engine is running .. But i hope enough oil find its way back to the bathtub.. : Sounds very interesting with your friends land speed project. Is it for the Salt lake competition ? Have a nice day Thomas |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:13 am ] |
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Yes, the car is a 66 Barracuda and has a record in NA "classic production" class @133 MPH. We will run the car at the Bonneville Salt Flats Speed Week in August this year with an improved NA motor (140-150 MPH target), then plan to switch to a turbo motor next year. 150-170 MPH maybe?? Best, Lou |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:43 am ] |
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Quote: Observation: I always take a lot of care to make sure the oil can easily flow back down to the sump, by angling the baffles down from all directions. I looks like especially the rear baffle may trap oil from flowing back down, and possibly the front and right side baffles to a lesser extent. Remember that the pan rail angles downward from front to rear.
Lou Good observation, I did not notice that on the first view.. but it does look kind of flat.. you do want those baffles to return the oil down. Greg |
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| Author: | mopars biggest fan [ Wed Sep 23, 2015 6:28 pm ] |
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Looks good |
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