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Covalt - "Project 65 Valiant"
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35632		 Page 66 of 124
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:46 pm ]
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While I was swapping to the new race motor I wanted to change the throttle cable around to have a little better angle to the carb. I started with the factory Super Six bracket, and removed the factory cable clamp. I took a piece of aluminum angle and cut it and notched it to fit snugly in the bracket. tightened down the factory hold down nut and the bracket is ready for the new cable.
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I gave it a coat of paint and mounted it to the engine. I am actually going to use a Gearhead kickdown cable as the throttle cable. It has plenty of adapters and lots of adjustment points and I think it will work well. All I need to do is drill a hole in the bracket for the cable and it should be good to go. No kickdown is needed since I am using a full manual valve body.
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I bent up a new piece of stainless steel fuel line from some scraps I had. I was able to clamp it off to the factory bracket on the top of the valve cover
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I repainted the chrome air cleaner cover with the blue anodized paint. All I think is left is the throttle cable which will be here Tuesday and top off some fluids. Then we should be ready for start up!
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Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Feb 21, 2017 5:28 pm ]
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Got the carb side of the cable installed before I had quit. I just took the transmission end of the Gearhead cable and put it up at the carb. Now the cable will snap on the ball instead of needing a clip to hold it on. I did have to bend the carb bracket out slightly to allow room for it to snap into place.

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Author:  Rob Simmons [ Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:01 am ]
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Very nice work Rick!! :D
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:35 pm ]
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Bolted the cable through the fire wall and into the throttle pedal hole. This throttle works easier than anything I have ever pushed. It is $23 and has plenty of adjustments. I did put some powder graphite on the cable when I slid it in for lubrication. There is plenty of cable and housing left for spares and there is plenty for you guys that want to run the carb East / West instead of North / South.

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Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Feb 25, 2017 12:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Fired off!
Ok, While the Slant 6 banquet folks were doing some bench racing I was doing some disturbing of the peace at my house. I fired up the new race motor and got it up to temp and broke in the cam. Had one little disaster that comes from not tightening the upper radiator hose! :lol: But no biggie.

I did hear a scraping noise while cranking over to get oil pressure that sounded "tinny" out on the clear front of the engine. So I pulled the Alternator/water pump belt and fired it up and it is quiet as it should be. So it is either the Alternator or the water pump. Alternator worked fine when I pulled it off for the swap so I guess that leaves the new water pump. It sounds like the fins of the pump are hitting the center plate? That is honestly what I was hoping form the start! Because who wants to pull the motor back out for a rubbing crank scraper or windage tray.

Anyway, with the belt off I can not feel it rubbing at all! Not even a little. Pulley spins free as a bird. So now what to do? I really hate to pull the radiator and water pump off if I don't have to. I guess the $23000 question is what will it do if I don't? Will the tip of whatever is rubbing just wear off? Why is it only heard to rub while running? Is the water pressure pushing the plate over....etc.

Glad to hear it run. 55 pounds of oil pressure, and the rebuilt transmission from Ryan has forward gears. No reverse until I put in a switch for the trans brake.
Author:  slantzilla [ Sat Feb 25, 2017 11:38 pm ]
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Is it possible there is no gasket between the pump and plate making the plate a touch too close to the impeller? Are you sure your pulley spacing is all correct? I have seen the edge of a pulley scrape on a bolt head and make a racket before too. :shock:
Author:  emsvitil [ Sat Feb 25, 2017 11:42 pm ]
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Got a spare alternator to make sure it's not the existing alternator?
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 26, 2017 4:12 am ]
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Quote:
Is it possible there is no gasket between the pump and plate
99.9% sure there is a gasket. I always try and get a little bit of sealer onto that gasket and it is always a pain. I will check the bolts later today.
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Got a spare alternator to make sure it's not the existing alternator?
This is small GM style 1 wire, so I don't have a spare. But I do have an original Mopar one if I can find my belt (different length) that I could jump on and verify the noise is still there.

Thanks guys.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Feb 28, 2017 5:33 pm ]
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After removing the water pump I found my issue / issues. Look at the tip of the impeller blade. See some shiny spots? Yes it was just barely touching some slag in the block. But I don't believe that was my major noise. it was something much simpler! See picture #2

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The new Romac balancer is a smaller diameter than a factory damper. Thus it moves the belt slightly from the normal position. The cogs of the belt were just barely tipping the edge of the timing tab! With an original damper, it would have never been a problem. Took a pair of pliers and gave it a little adjustment.
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Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:06 pm ]
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:D :D :D :D :D :D
Author:  Rob Simmons [ Wed Mar 01, 2017 2:44 am ]
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I'm glad you found it so easily. That has to be a relief.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:27 am ]
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Ran the car up to temperature 2 more times just to check things out. No water leaks, but I have a drip from behind the oil pump somewhere. I may have to live with that one for a while! :( I also ran the valves again with everything hot and re-torqued the head gasket. All my push rods are spinning and I have oil up top so I guess we are good to go. Marked the new dipstick to be full with 7 quarts total including the filter.

So I am off to wire up the switch for the trans-brake. If all goes well I should have reverse later today! :lol: Shooting for a test & tune on March 18th if the weather is decent. Anyone want to come along? :lol: :lol:

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:03 pm ]
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Quote:
If all goes well I should have reverse later today!
So much for wishful thinking!!

Put in the switch for the Brake and dropped it in gear and I have no gears whatsoever. Forward or reverse! I checked the fluid level and it is full idling in nuetral. This is with a factory dipstick and tube. Shifter is moving through the gears and it only starts in Park and Nuetral. I did have forward after I originally fired the engine and got it running. I haven't done anything else to it since then. This is the spare race transmission that Seymour had rebuilt that was a Ryan's.

So Gurus please tell me what is next to do?
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:08 pm ]
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....put in the driveshaft.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:09 pm ]
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How many does it take Sandy!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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