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| Gas in Carb Boiling https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10022 |
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| Author: | 73dart_swinger [ Wed Aug 04, 2004 2:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Gas in Carb Boiling |
has anyone had trouble with their gas boiling in the carb? i have a super six and a stock exhaust manifold. if it gets hot enough under the hood the car dies and then is a real pain to get started again. anyone have solutions to this? ive had trouble finding carbs spacers and im not sure what else might help this problem? |
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| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Wed Aug 04, 2004 4:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
VERY common problem on slant sixes... First thing to check: Make sure your heat-riser valve in the exhaust manifold is not stuck closed (diverting heat to the underside of the intake). Too low of a float level or insufficient fuel pressure can contribute to this problem. A heat shield can be fashioned from a sheet of aluminum, and make sure you are running the thickest carb gasket you can get. D/W |
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| Author: | Slant6Ram [ Thu Aug 05, 2004 6:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Fuel line check |
If your fuel line is contacting/mounted to the head, the head actually gets hotter after you shut off the engine since coolant stops flowing. Some people re-route the fuel lines over the valve cover and away from heat. You could double up on thin gaskets if a thick one isn't available. |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Thu Aug 05, 2004 7:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Vapor lock sucks. If you reroute the fuel line over the head, plan ahead so you'll be able to work around it during valve adjustments. I made a template from coat hanger wire, then bent the metal lines. Keep the rubber line to a minimum, especially if you want to pass tech at the strip. Another thing to watch for is gas tank sediment clogging the fuel filter - it can give similar symptoms. I put in a clear inline filter so I can see what's going on. |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Thu Aug 05, 2004 11:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey! I'm machining a carb spacer in delrin. Delrin has very nice mechanical properties and acts like a heat disipator on the base of the carb. I rerouted the fuel line also and it helps a lot. Just doin the spacer planning ahead for the summer down here. good luck! PS: also if your valvle lash adj is bad, sometimes ex gets hotter, contributing to mess things up. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 05, 2004 4:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Some of the later Rams (80 models) were fitted with asbestos heat shields for the carb. You could go to the junkyard and might find one. My Ram has one on it. |
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| Author: | 63gtcv [ Fri Aug 06, 2004 5:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | asbestos |
wouldn't that stuff cause cancer in your carb ? |
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| Author: | 63gtcv [ Fri Aug 06, 2004 5:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | asbestos |
wouldn't that stuff cause cancer in your carb ? |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Fri Aug 06, 2004 6:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you don't eat it or handle it too much it should'nt hurt anything. |
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| Author: | 63gtcv [ Fri Aug 06, 2004 6:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | carbs |
usually only with breakfast |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Aug 17, 2004 4:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Been there and done that numerous times. Here is how to fix a bunch of starting/running problems at the same time: Remove the metal line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor and throw it away. Install a 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass fitting in the fuel pump outlet and another in the carb inlet. These fittings can be had from any well-stocked hardware store that carries the Dorman "orange drawers" line of springs, fittings, etc. The Dorman part number is 492-024; Everbrass number is 1791. Between these fittings I run a length of 5/16" I.D. *fuel injection* hose (marked SAE 30R9, not the less heat-resistant old-fashioned 30R7 stuff that doesn't do well with modern gas formulations over time -- be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps, too). This line runs vertically up from the fuel pump, over the valve cover, and across to the carburetor. The fuel filter (with a metal can, the plastic ones sometimes don't do well with oxygenated gas) gets installed vertically so it's right behind the alternator...this keeps it away from heat and the alternator fan cools it down further. Much better than the stock location where it gets heated up by the exhaust manifold! With this setup, a lot of the bitchy hot and cold start problems disappear, because you're no longer boiling fuel in that metal line when you shut off the engine. Try it, you'll like it! |
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| Author: | Wizard [ Tue Aug 17, 2004 5:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would like to know what cars that used vapor separator device? Looks like filter can with three fittings. Need this to put in my carb 2.2L plymouth 1987 caravan. FSM shows this one and mine is missing. Cheers, Wizard |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Aug 17, 2004 5:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Why do you need to know what cars used it? You already know your '87 Caravan needs a 3-fitting filter, so go get a 3-fitting filter for your '87 Caravan. |
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| Author: | Eric W [ Tue Aug 17, 2004 9:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I followed SlantSixDan's advice on re-routing the fuel line a few years ago and have had no problems with hot starts. Also, the line has never cracked or leaked. Great advice Dan. I also replaced all the soft fuel lines from the tank with the fuel injection hose. |
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| Author: | Wizard [ Tue Aug 17, 2004 11:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
SlantSixDan, This three fitting device I think it is NLA from dealer, and part houses couldn't find it. Maybe it is under different name. There are another one with three fitting type but this is used to separate water from fuel. This is not one I'm looking for, this is for separating vapor from fuel before sending fuel to carb. Cheers, Wizard |
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