Got a phonecall from my painter this morning, he had good news and bad news,.. The good news was that the car has a nice new coat of paint and the bad news was that he trashed the engine,.. I knew this was about to happen, so I wasn't angry,... That's why I had been working on a new engine.

I quickly arranged a car trailer, because I had to pull this engine and put the new one, which wasn't completely ready in.

Ok, here's the point.

I'm leaving in a couple of days, me and my girlfriend will get into the car, drive down to the UK (Great Britain) and stay there for half a year (both for internships).

But the car doesn't drive yet,... I'll start on it tomorrow, and need to get it running tomorrow,..!

The engine didn't want to 'sink' into the frontleft motormount because the oilpan doesn't clear. Do I just dent the oilpan a bit with a hammer, is this normal?? I'll start on that first tomorow, any hints?

I bought clifford headers and the proline webers, but I have to stick to the 2 barrel and normal single exhaust for a while, because of 'no time'.

The hot comp cam is in, more compression is arranged, etc. Can it cause any harm, or what will I most likely experience when I put the super six plus original exhaust back on temporarily??


Please feed me with some hints 'n tips, anything, I need ém

Thanks, Now I'm off to bed, it's been a long day

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1965 Barreiros Dodge Dart. 225 / 4 speed.

Why don't you use the oil pan/pickup from the old engine? Sounds like the new engine came off of a different style body (ie, your trying to put in a truck engine into an A body). There were a handful of different oil pans over the years. Just make sure you keep the pickup with its respective pan.

The other oilpan is gone now, but it looked exactly the same. this one came out of a Valiant or a Dart, not sure.

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1965 Barreiros Dodge Dart. 225 / 4 speed.

The pan from a Dart won't fit my Aspen because, although it looked the same, the drop measures a full inch further back (about 2.5 cm for you). I know nothing about the '65 body, but if you're going to bend the pan with a hammer, you should drop the pan and make sure you don't mangle the oil pick-up tube. It could take a good bid of hammering. You'll want to remove the oil pan. I'd want a little clearance, because the engine moves a little, and pan hitting frame is hard on the ears.

If the old pan can't be retrieved. Take it slow and easy with a machinist hammer against some blocks of wood. Take some measurements, so you only have to do it once.

"Can it cause any harm, or what will I most likely experience when I put the super six plus original exhaust back on temporarily?? "

The old setup should not harm anything but your performance. It should run like any factory built slant 6. By "performance", I mean you won't see all the extra horses the engine is built for yet. The oil pan is the bigger of the two problems.

Good Luck.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Some SL6 oil pans look the same but they have the sump in a different position.
The 60-66 A-body oil pan has a sump that is a full inch further back then a 67 and later pan. (top left)

The blue pan shown in the pic with the small square sump would be the next best for an early A-Body, it came in 77 and up F-Body cars.
http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/parts/oilpans.jpg

Save yourself pain and find the correct pan and pick-up tube for your car.

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1965 Barreiros Dodge Dart. 225 / 4 speed.