sorry, I know this is slant six forum, but ignition is ignition and I own a '66 slant that is 'Old faithful, and I am DESPERATE for help.

Ok here it goes and it is going to be a doozy
my car: 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger with 318, bone stock.

Problem: car turns over, but not firing at all, not even a little.

What I have done and noticed so far:
1) battery is good since it cranks starter continuously with no signs of slowing
2) starter is working like a champ
3) changed the coil, plugs, ballast resistor (4-prong type to go with my electronic ignition), rotor, cap

I dont think I am getting spark, I pulled the lead from the coil to the dist. cap and held it to the engine and a screwdriver and NO spark, nothing. Perhaps coil is wired wrong, but I thought that too (forgot to pay attention to what was wired where). All wires are perhaps 6-8 months old. Alternator, voltage regulator are both new. I am completely stumped. The only thing that I can think of is my ignition module is bad and for some reason that is holding everything back (not likely, but possible since I am not 100% sure), or the external condensor that is bolted to the block and wires to the positive side of the coil is shot and holding back all hopes of spark. Other than those two things I am drawing a blank on what my next step should be. Oh yea my dad said maybe timing is why it isnt firing (even though it is probably off, but that shouldnt stop spark FROM coil, should it?)

Thanks I hope you guys can help.
Caesar

Take the cap off the distributor and verify that the rotor turns when the engine is cranked. Yes? Good

With a test light or meter, make sure the coil is getting 12+volts when the the ignition switch is in the run position.
Yes? Good

With a test lead attached to the coil negative terminal, tap the other end of the test lead to ground. The coil should throw a spark? Good.

You have narrowed the problem to the ignition modual or the reluctor pick-up coil in the distributor. Verify that the wires connecting to these parts are in reasonable condition. The ignition modual grounds to the firewall, so remove it, clean the mounting of paint or rust and re-install.

If it still doesn't work, you can test the pick-up and the ignition modual with a meter, but you can be pretty sure one or the other needs replaced. Hope that gets you moving in the right direction again.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

The RF interference capacitor on your coil should be on the negative, not positive terminal. Your coil positive wire is grounding out to the block before the coil has a chance to "make" a spark.

-S/6

How does the capacitor ground to the block?

In any case, on the negative side, the coil would always be grounded as well.

The capacitor is not the issue unless it's damaged.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Whoops

You are right, the capacitor shouldn't ground out (IIRC--I need to find my electrical engineering text )...but I have only seen them on the negative terminal...not the positive? May be throwing things off enough that the ECU cannot trigger a spark...at least that is my guess.

The capacitor is not even needed, it is there to remove radio interference caused by ignition 'noise'. I would try it w/o the capacitor hooked up to the coil and see if you get spark. At the very least this test will tell you if the capacitor is the problem.

-S/6