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| Excessive Brake Pedal Travel https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10409 |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Tue Sep 14, 2004 11:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Excessive Brake Pedal Travel |
I looked for answers on other post but couldn't find what I was looking for. I did a dual master conversion on a '64 Dart. I started with a brass sleeved master. I then put in a kit and replaced both of the brass orfaces and the valves behind them. I changed the metering block and used 2 adatpers to get the front lines into the new block. The block was provided by the owner of the car, so I can't say anything about that. The pedal travels about 3" to "lock". On my dad's old Darts, the travel is about 1". All the shoes are slightly dragging, so that seems OK. I know someone else who had this problem, and he make the rod to the pedal longer, but all that does is effectively "pre-press" the pedal down by the added length, since the pedal stops on the brake light switch in the up position. I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem, and if you have, what is the cause? I want to see if I can fix the cause, not the effect. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Sep 15, 2004 12:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Re-bleed the system, using a pressure bleeder if you have access to one. Few things that can be happening.... either your master cylinder not holding pressure, the wheel cylinders wearing out or leaking, or the shoes misadjusted. Seems like you got all these worked out, so the only other thing I can think of, as I said before, air in the system.... If everything is functional and your pedal is consistent, and you just want less pedal travel, you'd need a master cylinder with a bigger bore. |
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| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Wed Sep 15, 2004 5:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Does it have a good hard pedal? Pierre hit on the other question that came to my mind - what is the new m/c bore vs. the old one? D/W |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Wed Sep 15, 2004 4:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The pedal is not soft, and the bore is 1", same as the one I took out (unless I really missed something). It took a standard rebuild kit for a '67. I have blead the lines twice, I guess I could try that again. I don't have a pressure system. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Sep 15, 2004 4:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
A pressure bleeder can make all the difference. You can make one inexpensively out of a garden sprayer. Check out this webpage http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm I did something similar and it came out well. The only thing is you need some clamping system to keep the lid pressed tightly against the MC reservoir because those plastic reservoirs don't really have enough threads on the cap to hold pressure. If your using an original style metal reservoir MC, then you need to get more creative. If your going from 1" bore single pot to 1" bore dual pot in theory you will have less pedal travel, assuming your new MC is holding pressure. Maybe the sleeve in your master cylinder made the bore smaller then stock? |
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| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Wed Sep 15, 2004 10:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Drum brakes all around, right? Does the dual m/c have residual pressure valves under the tube seats? I've had trouble with master cylinders missing those, sometimes you just get a bad m/c, too. I know you mentioned it was sleeved, but maybe there is a problem with the piston? D/W |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Sat Sep 18, 2004 10:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The bore is the same or else the kit wouldn't fit. I have used this re-sleever before and he does a good job. When I rebuilt the MC, I put new valves in behind new brass fittings. Looks like I may have to try a pressure bleed. |
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| Author: | Craig [ Sun Sep 19, 2004 11:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Chuck, Who is this resleever? I need a mc on my oldie Cushman Truckster resleeved. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Tue Sep 21, 2004 8:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The resleever is: Sierra Specialty Automotive 3494 Chandler Road Quincy, CA 95971 Phone: 800-4-brass-1 E-mail: sierrasa@psln.com The E-mail address might be old. |
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