1975 Dart Swinger, original 225 /6 and 1-bbl carb

* I am experiencing some erratic behavior from my baby. The car cold-starts well, but does not always hot-start easily. And it doesn't happen every time, but sometimes when I've been driving for long enough to warm the engine, I will put it in "Park" and the engine races. When you try to shut it off, of course, the engine keeps firing for a round or two after the ignition is off.

What am I looking at here? Timing, idle adjustment, other? I'm a novice so please use small words & diagrams

Thanks!

It sounds like you might have some incorrect carburator settings, and/or you might have a vaccuum leak. Idle the engine till warm/drive it, and try to repeat the 'problem', and then check for leaks by using a propane torch (don't light it), or spraying some carb cleaner around the intake gasket or carb base, if the engine suddenly 'changes' idle speed you have found something that needs to be tightened or retorqued, or replace the gasket.

-D.Idiot

How's that throttle return spring?

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Been there and done that numerous times. Here is how to fix a bunch of starting/running problems at the same time:

Remove the metal line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor and throw it away. Install a 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass
fitting in the fuel pump outlet and another in the carb inlet. These
fittings can be had from any well-stocked hardware store that carries the
Dorman "orange drawers" line of springs, fittings, etc. The Dorman part number is 492-024; Everbrass number is 1791.

Between these fittings I run a length of 5/16" I.D. *fuel injection* hose (marked SAE 30R9, not the less heat-resistant old-fashioned 30R7 stuff that doesn't do well with modern gas formulations over time -- be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps, too). This line runs vertically up from the fuel pump, over the valve cover, and across to the carburetor. The fuel filter (with a metal can, the plastic ones sometimes don't do well with
oxygenated gas) gets installed vertically so it's right behind the
alternator...this keeps it away from heat and the alternator fan cools it
down further. Much better than the stock location where it gets heated up
by the exhaust manifold!

With this setup, a lot of the bitchy hot and cold start problems
disappear, because you're no longer boiling fuel in that metal line when you shut off the engine. Try it, you'll like it!

I just realized I never updated this, but the problem was actually a lot simpler than I made it out to be: air/fuel mixture was too rich. A few rounds of trial and error have led to a better, leaner fuel setting. I've covered about 500 miles without incident so I think I have it dialed in correctly.

Thanks for your suggestions! SlantSixDan that is a good idea, I may end up doing that even though my problem is solved...

Post above was me, I didn't realize I wasn't logged in