Looking at the old thread below "slant six timing tape", I was wondering if there is something wrong with my method. Warm the engine, and remove the valve cover. Restart the engine and turn out the idle adjust until it almost stalls. Use feeler gauges of the correct thickness. Use the go or no-go method on the moving lash adjustments. The correct gauge should just go through the lash. A 3/8" socket works best for the adjusting nut.

I used to have the difficulties mentioned in the thread when I discovered this easier method. The valve train always runs quieter and holds the adjustment. And because it is so easy I don't even mind doing it twice a year.

Maybe someone will comment.

That's also a pretty popular way of doing it.

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

I actually enjoy adjusting it while running, because it's so easy compared to stop/go adjustment.

The only time it'd do it the 'hard way' is on a build/rebuild, where the adjustment could be way out of wack from mixed parts.

I'd still fine tune it once the engine was hot the first time.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Adjusting the valves with the engine running is the way I like to do it.
the only times i do a "static" adjustment is for a new engine on the engine stand or on a Slant with a super wild performance cam and heavy valve springs.
DD

This is the way the 1969 Plymouth service manual recommends doing it:

"Operate engine until normal temperature is reached"

"Allow the engine to idle at 550 RPM at this 180 deg F temperature for five minutes."

"Adjust tappets, HOT; intake .010 inch, exhaust .020 inch."

Bob D

You know, I've read those words a hundred times in various manuals. It definately doesn't say to turn off the engine. But it doesn't say to leave the engine running either.javascript:emoticon(':)')

Tom,
You're one of those people tech writers have nightmares about.
Bob D

You know, back in the day I had a VW and I seem to remember a stopping point on the crank where half the valves could be adjusted. Then another crank or two and the others could be adjusted. Has anyone taken the time to see if the /6 has a similar non running method? Seems like there ought to be a few places on the crank where most could be adjusted and then another spot where the rest could be adjusted. Just curious. I have a newly rebuilt on the stand ready for adjusting right now.[/img]

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Sweet Emotion

Maybe some-one else knows, if cam has that kind of profile that it is possible to at adjust valve lash with two steps. But it is really easy to turn engine six times. I wrote easy method to another post how to do it. I have done it with other engines, but I also adjust SLant6 valve lash while engine is running.

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Sorry, my english is not very good