The fuse in the #2 cavity of my fusebox keeps blowing. This is a 20 amp for Back-up and reverse gear indicator lights, heater blower motor, turn signal and radio.
When the fuse blew the heater blower was not on. The radio was on when I turned on the ignition and the fuse blew. No turn signals were on, the back up lights were not on either.

The other interesting thing is that when I turn my hazards on and turn my turn signal lever on at the same time, it blows the Cavity#7 fuse which is also 20 amp. Dome, stop, ignition and seat belt lights, ignition light relay, andseat belt and key in buzzer.
Any Thoughts on what the culprit might be?
Dennis S

Your supposed to avoid having the hazard lights and turn signal on at the same time. This I know for sure, it mentions it in the service manual.

Since they are on the same circuit. It can cause wierd behaviour, and I suspect you blowing a fuse is normal if you do turn them on at the same time.

The #2 fuse, hmm, does it always blow the fuse when you turn the ignition on with the radio already on? We're talking about a stock radio too, right?

Having the hazards and turn signals on at the same time is like connecting two positive leads together....which should blow either circuits fuse.

In regards to the first question, if the fuse does not blow with the radio turned off, first thing I would look at is the main (ignition switched) power wire to the radio. It may be shorting out to ground through worn/cracked insulation.

-S/6

As soon as I put a new fuse in and turn the key the fuse blows.
The radio is turned off. Everything having to do with the #2 fuse as stated above does not work. Any ideas where I could start to diagnose this?
Thanks in advance,
Dennis

With everything turned off, that pretty much narrows it down to a bare wire touching ground or a bad switch somewhere and I have seen several shorts caused by bare wires inside the steering column.

Try disconnecting the column wiring and see if the fuse blows. If it still blows, you have eliminated the steering column and if not, you know where to troubleshoot.

The idea is to keep eliminating components from the circuit until you find the guilty one.

I had a problem with my truck several years ago, back-up lights not working. Could be similar to your problem.
I found the wire harness going to the back-up/neutral safety switch had rubbed through on a sharp edge of the firewall. The wires inside were melted. Also the back-up switch in the tranny did not test right. I removed it and took it apart and found its internals all melted.

I don't know what failed first, the wiring or the switch. Also I don't recall if it blew a fuse or not.

Look for bad wires.

my hazards on my 73 dart wont work UNLESS i have my blinker on at the same time????

My guess there would be a bad hazard flasher.


If you have a multi-meter, set it to ohms, and start checking for continuity in the offending circuit power wires. I would start from the NON battery power side of the fuse box to the radio power wire (at the radio connector), then from fuse box to reverse light power, then fuse box to heater motor power. Testing the reverse lights in this manner may prove impossible, as the leads on a multi-meter are only so long.

When was the last time all three items (radio, reverse lights, heater) were working properly? Have you done anything to the wiring in the interim?

You can simply unplug the heater blower motor to eliminate a shorted motor as the cause. (Leaves the wiring between fuse box and it in question).

Same with the radio, same with the reverse bulbs.

If you can unplug all three devices and the fuse still blows, you will at least know beyond any doubt that the problem is in the wiring.

I know that doesn't help much, but eliminates some of the possibilities. I think everyone hates chasing down shorts within the wiring.

-S/6

alot of times this is the cigarette lighter connection coming loose, bad wiring around moving under dash mechanicals and nasty tail wiring like the license plate light

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