The car won't start with the key in the start postion. It starts after letting the key back to the run position. So, I have to turn it over and guess when I think it will fire, then let the key back to see.

The car is a '71 Dart, 225 slant six. It was converted to electronic ignition by the previous owner. I replaced the Ignition module, Ballast resistor, and voltage regulator.

I'm stumped. Any ideas?

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'71 Dart Swinger

You should double check the wiring to make sure nothing is broken or burnt. You may also have a damaged starter relay, which should supply the power bypassing the balast resistor during starting. Follow the coil's power wire backwards and test each link for failure.

Did it ever start correctly, or was this a gremlin left over from the previous owners poor workmanship.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Ignition Switch.

-S/6

The car used to start and run perfectly. A while back the car wouldn't start at all. I checked for spark and found none. I traced the wires, like you said, back from the coil to the Ignition module. That's when I changed it, and it ran fine afterwards. Another time it just quit while I was driving down the road, and I found a fusible link burnt up. I put in a new link and it was good to go. Those two problems have been pretty recent, so I've looked the wires over pretty good. I'll take your advice on the starter relay.

If that doesn't do it, I guess I should change the Ignition Switch.

Thanks for the help. After I get this problem solved I get to have some fun trying to get the choke working correctly.

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'71 Dart Swinger

Ignition switch does not compute. It wouldn't crank the starter if that switch was bad. The system doesn't split into two systems until the starter relay. (I think)

I would be looking for a faulty wire or bad ground, because you have been having related problems which blow fuses.

Do you have a good understanding of the wiring harness, because I suspect something is connected incorrectly or you have improperly matched ignition components.

Is it a totally stock style conversion?

I'm throwing out ideas, but it's difficult when we don't know what has been done in the conversion.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Ballast resistor has two wires going IN to it: IGN1 and IGN2.

IGN 1 has power only when the key is in "start".
IGN 2 has power only when the key is in "run".

(these might be visa-versa)

The most common cause of a no start, or starts when let off cranking, that I have seen over the last few years (on this board and others) is a bad ignition switch.

The starter relay recieves power from a separate wire in the ignition switch. IGN 1 is there to provide the coil power during cranking (which appears to be the problem). Once the key is let off to "run", IGN 1 loses power and the coil is fed power through the BR by IGN 2.

If IGN 1 does not have power during cranking, there is something wrong with the ignition switch internally, or the IGN 1 wire has a break in it. My money is on the switch. $0.02.

-S/6

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The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

I don't have a very good understaning of the wiring harness, but it is becoming a little more clear. Thanks for the help. The conversion was done with factory parts.

This weekend I will test the current to the wires you mentioned at the ballast resistor. Then check all the wiring in the ignition circuit for burns, cracks, etc. If everything checks out I will change the switch and possibly the relay too.

For now the car is in a shell of ice and snow. Luckily I pushed it out of the driveway before the storm began. A couple of large branches fell out of the tree right where the Dart was parked. It is supposed to get back up into the 50's this weekend... Kansas weather...

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'71 Dart Swinger

If you don't understand wiring and what goes where, get yourself to www.classiccarwiring.com and get yourself the wiring diagram for your ride. Its color coded and easy to follow, as well as plastic coated so that grease and gunk clean right up and doesn't ruin it.
Does this sound like a commercial? God, I hope not! Good Luck.

I agree that you've got a good plan in mind.

I also value Super6's experience enough to revoke my earlier comment that it couldn't be the ignition switch. He makes a good point. While we are on the topic of experience, another weak link in wiring has often been the main bulkhead connector at the firewall. You should unplug and inspect it carefully while tracing for bad wiring.

Good Luck when the weather clears up, please let us know what you find, so we will all be better informed to help people in the future.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Bulkhead connector is a good place to check before replacing the ignition switch, though you would likely be experiencing other electrical problems as well if the connecter were corroded or dirty. Never hurts to check what's free.

Re-reading my above post, I made an error.

First, from the diagram in the article section it appears IGN1 is 'run' and IGN2 is 'start'. So everything above is visa-versa.

Second, IGN2 (start) bypasses the "IN" side of the ballast resistor and connects directly to the "OUT" BR post, thus providing the coil + terminal with full voltage during cranking.

Too many wiring diagrams floating around in my head.

-S/6

I had similar problems and it turned out to be the bulkhead connector. I replaced it all with soldered connections.