Yesterday, while walking through the local you pull it yard, I located a Dodge van with what appears to be a super 6 setup. My guess is that it would be worth pulling off the engine as well as the throttle linkage (cable, etc). Would the van cable throttle linkage work on a sedan? What else should I get. Prices are extremely reasonable.

All the linkage and brackets should be the same and work fine in a car, except the actual throttle cable from the van which will be much too long. You'd want to get everything (just go ahead and pull the manifolds as an assembly and keep the exhaust, too, if it's not cracked), including the brackets, link rods and the kickdown lever off the trans. It's not worth going after if the intake manifold is aluminum (warps, cracks, leaks, porous castings, shoddy welds)—only if it's iron. Take a magnet along!

I would get everything. Intake/exhaust manifold, choke unit, kickdown linkage (I even get the lever on the trans). air cleaner, throttle pedal and cable, all the springs. That way if it is needed you have it, if not, maybe someone else might need a piece. Some of this stuff is going for a fair amount of money on e-bay. Saw a kickdown linkage go for around $100 by itself. IMHO that's nuts.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

You should grab everything, these set-ups sell on ebay in the $100-200.00 range on a regular basis. Manifold, carb, brackets and air cleaner are key items.

The throttle brackets and return spring bracket are all the same, the throttle cable / peddle can be "had" from many Mopar cars if you find that the Van's is not a good fit.
DD

Gotcha! I decided to get prepared a bit before heading out to the pick and pull tomorrow. Opened up the hood on the 73 Dart, checked out the various wrenches and sockets I will need to pull the intake and exhaust. Boy, those two lower nuts on the exhaust? on either side of the carb are going to be one major problem. Think I can get them with a swivel head and deep socket. Any tips? Oh, the price of the complete set up is $5. Can't go wrong. Thanks for the tip on the magnet. I think it is iron, not aluminum though. Being a van, most of the nuts don't look too badly rusted, but I'll take a can of Blaster along...

Hey Dajuj,
Those two inner lower nuts come off fine using a 3/8" drive socket (to fit 1/2" nut) and 12" extension, no swivel thing needed. It will (barely) fit in there, just have to work it between the exhaust counterweight and manifold on the front nut, the back one is easier. 1/2" drive socket stuff is too bit to fit in there.

The best way to spot a Super Six is to look for 4 carburator mounting bolts. (The 1 bbl has 2 mounting bolts)
If you see a loose SL6 intake manifold with two "silver dollar" size thru holes and the 4 threaded carb mounting holes, that's a Super Six manifold.
There are some good photos in this article:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/article.htm
DD

......another old wives tale.

I and many others have used the aluminum manifold with excellent results. It is easy to check any manifold for leaks.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

The single-piece sandcast aluminum 2bbl intake MP sold is an excellent casting. The 2-piece welded-together "ultra light weight" EB-welded intakes (1bbl and 2bbl) are poor. Not an old wive's tale at all, they were the subject of a few different TSBs and recalls over the short period they were used in production vehicles. Most of them were replaced under warranty (or at customer expense after the warranty had expired) with cast iron manifolds.

Yes Dan,,,,and many people have checked them for porosity found them fine and used them as an inexpensive, lightweight alternative. Have you ever used one? ...Or is this hearsay? We only want firsthand information here....

I checked the manifold I use now by duct taping over the head face and carburettor mounting surface. I plumbed a hose into a vacuum port on the manifold. I hooked up the other end of the hose to a vacuum source(manifold vacuum on my slant). No vacuum leaks were detected and I now have a very nice polished aluminum manifold that mounts a 65 318 BBD....and in the future a Dakota 3.7L throttle body.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Yep. Several of 'em. There's a good reason why those TSBs were written.
That said, they can be made to work reliably. You can greatly reduce the likelihood of porosity problems by having one of these manifolds powder coated to seal the casting. Or, after proper cleaning, you can use several coats of epoxy paint (tough to find in Chrysler red, don't remember where I got mine) to do the same thing.

Warpage at the head sealing surface and the exhaust manifold junction are still much bigger issues with this manifold than with pretty much any other ever made for the slant-6, though. Thick gaskets can help here.
I just find 'em more hassle than they're worth overall.
Now, Sandy, you BC types are supposed to be a friendly, laid-back lot!

Seriously, the issue with these manifolds doesn't mean every single one is a piece of junk. It's kind of like the porous castings in the '75-'77 aluminum-case A833OD transmissions. Many of them were fine and never seeped a drop of fluid, but many of them were "not-fine" and did seep fluid.

Because of attrition over the years, just as with the Aspens and Volarés (the bad ones have mostly disappeared from the roads), the odds are higher of finding a usable 2-piece intake are higher now than they were 10 or 15 years ago. But, I still don't mess with 'em.

YMMV, BYOB, etc., of course.