I have changed the fuel filter, which spewed particles of rust when I removed the old one. The car tries to crank and run, but only turns a few sputtering rpm's and never really runs, but chuggs, trying to run. The car was running when it just coughed, stopped running and refused to crank. That's when I replaced the fuel filter. Now I suspect rust has gotten into the stock 1 bl carb. It's a '62 Signet 225, stock engine, so do I need a rebuild kit to take the carb apart and clean it? The engine was redone a couple of years ago, but I wonder if taking the carb apart will require a kit? A second question: what can I do to keep rust from the gas tank from getting into the carb again? It has been running fine for a year without incident.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Unless you ran it without a filter, there should'nt be any rust in the carb. If the filter was mounted after the fuel pump, the pump could be plugged up with rust.

The best thing to do would be to replace/refurbish the tank & blow out the lines/fuel areas. Things to check is your fuel pump still pumping fuel? or has it also become plugged?
your carb's needle/seat area might have some particles caught-- you could get lucky & not tear a gasket when cleaning/inspecting but have a kit on-hand just in case.
What I would do is leave your tank alone, remove the sending unit & visually check the tanks' contents/condition. Then blow out the lines & go from there. The reason for not removing the tank is the old seal/tube area is fragile & might cause more problems when disturbed. My 62 has a leak when the tank is full -so I don't fill it full, this spring I'll remove it & repair the unit. These vehicles can take alot of abuse-- you might have just knocked the sock loose(or it crumbled). Anyhow do some back tracking & let us know how it turns out, also you could add another fuel filter 1 before the pump & 1 after Good luck

I went through this kind of problem a while back.
Yes, fine rust will get into your carb. Each filter only catches certain sizes of particles. The rest gets into the needle and seat, the bowl, the passages, etc. You should definitely have a kit on hand when you open the carb, as VDART said.
As for the tank, mine had an incredible about of black/red spongy crud in it. I knew I was in trouble when, in tilting the tank to remove it, I heard a long slushy sound. It came clean, but I really ought to seal it or replace it.
Before you remove the tank or sender, you might want to get a sending unit seal, an inlet sock, and a filler neck to tank grommet. The inlet sock is your first line filter, and is probably shot if it's there at all. The filler neck grommet can help you avoid uncomfortable encounters with the local fire department. DAMHIK

Thanks for the replies, guys. I am undertaking the solution, one step at a time. I found the carb kit, but the gaskets for the fuel sending unit and filler tube are more illusive. Anybody know where I could get those? Thanks again!

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Layson's, Year One, Paddock ....

The fuel filter change solved the fuel problem, but the car still would NOT start. We checked and then changed the coil, which was not firing blue blame, but shorting out. The car still wouldn't run, so we rechecked (second time) the distributor cap and rotor. The rotor spring contact on top (I don't know what you call it) was BENT down and twisted. We straightened it and reinstalled; the car cranked, but wouldn't idle. We rechecked the rotor again and again it was bent. We straightened it again, and raised the open end of the steel spring further from the plastic base and the car cranked up and ran great!
It is still running great, but with all the accel. pedal pumping I had to do, the screw or bolt attaching the shooter pump linkage to the carb (holley 1 bl) worked its way out, and now the shooter pump linkage is loose. It looks like it needs about a one inch long screw, about 3/16 or 1/4 dia., but where will I find the right screw for this? Is it fine or coarse thread, and what is the correct diameter? Thanks

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.