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Ball Joints on '69 Valiant - Drum setup
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Author:  My Three Valiants [ Tue Feb 01, 2005 5:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Ball Joints on '69 Valiant - Drum setup
How difficult is it to change the upper ball joint on a '69 Valiant with all-around drums? I've never had to do this job before and can't afford to take the car to the shop right now. I've done brakes, rads, points, and alternators before... but is this REALLY something that needs to be left to the pro's? If I can do it myself, are there any specific tools that I will need?

Any help would be MUCH appreciated!

Ryan

'68 2dr and 4dr Valiant 100
'69 2dr Valiant Signet and 4dr Valiant 100
Author:  70valiant [ Tue Feb 01, 2005 7:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
all you need is a ball joint seperator(pickle fork), the BIG socket and a LONG breaker bar. they are threaded into the upper A-arm. mine took a 6 foot pipe to get enough torque to break them loose. they are much easier to replace on the car then in a vise. there is a special socket( that was covered with dust) that I borrowed from an alighnment guy I used to work with. with out the socket some claim it is possible to get them out but dont hold your breath. find the socket and do it right.
If you want to hear me ramble I'll tell the whole story about replacing mine. :roll:
Author:  relic-lover [ Tue Feb 01, 2005 7:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Just takes the right tools
It is a fairly easy task if you have the right tools. The car is supported by
stands at the lower control arm. Remove the front wheel and support the drum so it does not stretch the brake line. Then you separate the ball joint stud from the spindle with a ball joint remover (or I use a tie rod end puller) - leave the nut on the stud loosely to keep the joint from flying apart. The upper ball joint is torqued into the upper control arm at
about 125 ft lbs and then is rusted in over the years. A ball joint socket
and an impact wrench make this bear into a pussy cat. Grab a Moog K704
and torque it back into the UCA at 125 ft pounds with your torque wrench.
Reassemble the ball joint stud into the spindle following the torque spec
(45-55 ft lbs ??) and a new cotter key. Put the wheel back on and lower the car off the stands. Not hard - the catch is just the tools.
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