So, I have a 70 Dart Custom with the 225. I haven't been driving it since October, because there is a loud dull clanking sound coming from the engine and I was told it's not really driveable. Since I don't need the car to drive anymore, I'd like to take it apart and see what it might be and fix it. The only thing is, I've never done such an undertaking so I'm curious to know what that would take. I have a good assortment of tools in the garage, nothing car-specific but all the standard stuff. Is fixing it (depending on the problem, of course) something that'd be possible for me?

I don't have the money to go the whole 9 yards and get the engine rebuilt, I'm just looking for a 'quick fix'. Thanks in advance for the help

Sure you can! They are simple machines, but get a manual, and read it!
And again.
You can probably re-ring it and new bearings+a gasket set would do most of it.
You need a torque wrench too.
Of cause, it may not be so simple if some parts are really damaged, like the crank, then you have to get it machined or get a nice used one.
Get some tools like that wrench, and to do measurements with.

If it's a bad rod or main bearing, there is no quick and easy fix. By the time it's making loud noises, there is likely to be crankshaft damage that requires machining or replacement.

If the noise is coming from a loose torque converter, it might be as easy as tightening the bolts.

You need to establish where the problem is before knowing what's involved.

Is the noise there all the time?...or only when you accelerate or decelerate? Is the oil pressure okay? Do you feel a vibration from the engine? Is the sound a low, dull knock, or a rattling sound? How long was it going on before you parked the car? Does it sound like the noise is coming from low in the block?...or near the head?

Depending on where you live, used 225's are probably a dime a dozen. The quickest and easiest fix MAY just be a used engine-ectomy. Of course, you would want to hear it run before buying, like at a local Pick -n- Pull.

Used 225: $150
Rented Cherrypicker: $30
Buddy: Free
Case of beer for buddy: $20.00

Can you tell where the engine noise is coming from? Such the bottom end or up top. It could be as simple as a noisy lifter. You might want to be sure before you tear the engine down. I bought a 73 Fury for dirt cheap because the engine was "rapping"...it was just a noisy lifter.

Awesome! thanks for all the tips. Tomorrow morning I'll fire her up and give a real good listen as to where the sound(s) are coming from. Then I'll let you guys know and perhaps I can figure this out after all.

I live in Southern California. Orange County to be exact.

If you do find that the engine has bad bottom end bearing, a "swap" with a good used engine would be a good way to go.
As noted, you can get a good used engine form a "P&P" type wrecking yard for cheap. another good thing is that you get some "practace" when you pull the engine out of the junkyard car.
DD

The sound seems to be coming from perhaps the bottom? And Most definately the front of the engine. It sounds as if someone is taking a screwdriver and hitting the engine with it as if it was a hammer. The sound isn't consistent with the 'beat' of the engine, if you know what I mean. There's also a 'scraping' sound coming from the back of the engine. Does that help?

while the engine is running take a test light and ground each plug wire to see if the noise goes away. to ground the plug wire, poke the test light through the boot at the distributor. since elecricity takes the path of least resistance, the "spark" will go through your test light. don't worry it won't hurt your test light or you. this test will tell if it is a rod bearing or not. i am in san diego and might be willing to come help you determine what might actually be wrong. email me at zedpapa6@yahoo.com and we'll work something out.

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

Why not just pull the wires one by one? Just use a rag or wear a thick glove... Even if you get a jolt, it'll just liven you up a little!

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Sorry, you have to be specific with me. I'm an ignoramus. If I can't see what you're talking about I'm kinda lost.
First off, a 'test light'? Like a lightbulb?

also, D/W, did you mean the spark plug wires?

Thanks

...yep, the plug wires. While it is running, fast idle or whatever speed it is knocking bad, yank each and then reconnect, one by one, trying not to get lit up in the process. I like to use a thick leather welding glove, but a clean rag will do. When you pull one and the knock diminishes, viola, you have found the offending rod bearing (if that's what it is). If you note no changes, it is probably something else.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

i think the first step you need to take is finding a local college and enrolling in a basic automotive class(or something similar). i thought i knew a lot about cars(in general) until i took that class. turns out i more stupid than i thought!

the next thing you need is a factory manual. not a haynes or chiltons(not worth the paper they're printed on, in my opinion. make sure the manual you get was printed by chrysler. i have one for my car and love it for all the information it has in it.

also you should find some close to you that is car smart and befriend him. or find a local car club. i can help you occasionaly but it is nice to have someone down the street or a couple blocks away. like you say you learn better when you see it first hand.

good luck on your project.

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

Here's another trick for checking spark when pulling plug wires.

You pull them from the distributor cap, and you don't pull them all the way. You just pull them out a little and listen to the spark.

A cylinder with a bad plug (or wire) will have a quiet spark in comparison to the others.

This isn't exactly for the type of diagnosis being discussed above, but it's a neat trick to know.

ALSO - as long as you don't pull the wires out to far, you don't need gloves or a rag, since the spark is still traveling through the wire and not through your hand.

The advantage to doing them at the cap is that you can do all of them really quickly (like 20 seconds total), and they are much easier to remove than the ends down at the plugs. They are also cooler, since they aren't touching anything that gets hot.

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1963 Dodge Dart, motor by Doug Dutra, Offenhauser two carb intake, Pertronix, Clifford 6x2, Flowmaster 40's, Erson RV15/295 RDP, head work. Addco anti-sway bar, urethane suspension bushings, KYB's, racing leafs, SSBC discs. Need ZDDP? Get STP.

...you grab some old, dried out wires like that, and I'll ga-run-tee you'll get zapped eventually! ZZZZZZZZAAAAAAAP!!!!!!!!!!!!

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!