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 Post subject: Replacing a Fuel Pump
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:02 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2004 10:59 am
Posts: 148
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car Model:
Either while reading the search function for fuel pump information, or some other place, I remember seeing something to the effect that if you smell gasoline on the oil dipstick, it is a good sign the diaphram on the fuel pump is ruptured. Can someone confirm this as well as give this newby some step by step instructions on replacing the fuel pump if I need to? Kind of tight around the thing. Don't know if the replacement should be done from the top or do I crawl underneath, etc. Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 7:10 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 2:44 pm
Posts: 305
Location: Tucson, Az
Car Model:
I think you have to do it from on top. It could dump feul into the engine I believe like you said, but I'm not sure. It is easy to replace, just 2 bolts hold it to the block and normal tools for those. Socket set or combination wrenches. There is usually a steel line on the output and a rubber line on the input. Normal tools for those as well. Just be sure not to strip the flare fitting on the output line or you will be using vise grips. Pretty easy job. A little tight but do-able.

Just take your time and go buy the right tools if you don't have them. Correct length socket extentions are helpful for the block bolts. Also there are 12 point tubing wreches that are similar to a closed end combination wrench but have a cut out allowing the wrench to slip over the steel line and then onto the flare fitting. Gives a better gripping effect on the flare fitting that a standard open end. Less chance of stripping. I think they are available at Sears.

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 Post subject: Fuel Pump
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 7:17 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2004 10:59 am
Posts: 148
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car Model:
Thanks for the tips. I have all the right tools. It looks like I will have to be careful in how to place the pump in the block because of the arm from the fuel pump. Thought I might put a little assembly lube on the tip of that when I put it into the block too. The instructions on the new pump said beginning in '74 I should put thread sealer on the bolts to reduce the chance of oil leaks. I have no idea what year my block is. Its in a 65 but I believe the seller told me the engine was later model. You are right...it is tight as hell working. Thats why I asked about whether to work from the bottom or top.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 8:56 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
I had to replace mine in my 62 the day I got it since fuel was spraying into the engine block and everywhere else. I did it from the top. It was kinda tight, but I removed any crap in the way (a few plug wires I think). I also re-routed my fuel line over the valve cover as SlantSixDan has recommended.

Here's a pic:

Image

I did a little writing and picture taking, not much: http://tinyurl.com/69dls

Ps, before SlantSixDan or anyone else berates the plastic fuel filter, its no longer there: http://tinyurl.com/4lvz3

MJ


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 Post subject: Fuel Pump update
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 5:51 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2004 10:59 am
Posts: 148
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car Model:
Well, I finally got around to changing the fuel pump. It turned out to be a painless, simple task. I found that it was much easier to reach the frontmost bolt from the bottom though. I'm very glad I did the swap since I found out that the original definately had a leaking diaphram.


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