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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2005 3:26 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:27 pm
Posts: 65
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I've got an A727 behind the Slant in my A100 van that I recently rebuilt myself. I put in a basic B&M shift improver kit(heavy duty version) AND had to replace the valve body (see below) with an available slant 6 A904 valve body (it looked the same) The problem(s) I'm having is at startup:

1) When I put it in gear theres no drive. I have to put it in neutral to get the converter filled up. Then as I'm waiting for that, fluid starts to dribble from the front seal area, and then when I put it into gear the fluid starts to pour out. But it only does this for a few seconds, then stops completely. Afterwards, when shifting and driving, all is fine. When I shut down somewhere for 5-10 minutes it's back to the delay routine, without the big leak. I was thinking converter drainback via the valve body, but so sudden? Also, there is a constant whining, or slight buzzing when it's running and driving.....my manual shows a possible valve body problem.
It may help to know that when the trans initially failed it was because of toasted clutches.All else was fine up to that point...when I pulled it apart there was no friction material left on the front clutches and the valve body was cracked at the torque converter valve cavity (I'm assuming it was the result of reving the engine to get it to move as it slipped that caused excessive pressure and then cracked?) So I thought I was lucky to have a spare slant 6 trans and pulled the valve body and compared. It looked the same to me so I used that. Is there a difference between the A727 and Slant 6 A904 valve body?

My other problem, today I noticed that my flexplate mounting holes for the converter are cracked(3 holes)! Now I'm wondering if during assembly I overlooked something....causing me the leaking and broken flexplate. Or could the somewhat hard 1st to 2nd shifts from the (lowly rated I've found) B&M shift kit be a cause for the flexplate breaking? What flexplates bolt up to a slant 6 and fit an A727 converter?
I wish I could have gone out and bought a rebuilt trans but you just can't go down to the local stores, or bone yards, and get one, as the output shaft is completly different, and my only option would have been to pull a used common trans apart to swap output shafts or pay someone to rebuild it.....Hmmm, not a bad idea..it all wnet together too easy!!! $150 crap self rebuild now..... $750 proffesional rebuilt tommorrow. Any trans "Guru's" hereto shed some light :( ?????


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 4:18 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2005 5:31 am
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Location: Norway
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I have used a 727 valvebody in a 904, don´t know about the other issues...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 6:14 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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Sounds to me like there is something wrong with the case. What you have is a symptom of an air leak. If the valve body cracked there may be a hairline in the case too.

Try e-mailing Keith Long at KFL727SPECIALIST@peoplepc.com . He can probably fix you up.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 8:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Did the front pump bushing get replaced? That is the item that keeps fluid in the converter and keeps a bunch of high pressure fluid off the front seal. If the front pump bushing is worn, "torn-up" or spun, you will have the issues you discribed. I Always Change the Front Pump Bushing on any Torqueflite I open-up, it is not a place to "cut a corner".

The valve bodies will interchange but these are slight adjustment / feature differences.
DD


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 1:25 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:27 pm
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Yeah, the bushing was replaced.......and now that you mention that, I did have a little trouble getting the converter to slide in. Kept at it and it finally went in. Not with any kind of excessive force, but it took more time and effort than I've had to use in the past. I was going to replace the bushing myself, but not having the proper tool to drive it in, I took it to a "trans shop"....and was skeptical as I watched a supposed "pro" do it. I had to stake it in myself!! and now am wondering if "I" did it good enough. I was under the van yesterday right after I shut it down and I could hear the fluid from the converter "glug-glug-glugging"........And the cracked flexplate mounting tabs would likely have been from a wobbly converter snout (fried bushing)?? .I will be yanking the trans next weekend. I bet, as you mention, that the bushing spun and is toast. I've wracked my brain trying to diagnose this...........I'll let you know what I find! Thanks

Lorin


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:10 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:27 pm
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Finally got the time to yank the trans and find out what the deal was. It was exactly what "Doctor Dodge" though it was! The bushing was loose, up against the seal. I replaced the entire pump with a rebuilt one and tossed in a TCI converter for good measure. Everything is working great now!! What a relief........:D :D :D


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