Scenario; Drag car only, alternator switching

If I'm not mistaken, the field terminal on an alternator is for a switched, (at the ign. switch), 12v source that causes a magnetic field to be produced in the windings in order to generate a larger amount to power the rest of the electrical load. (Y?-N?)

So; I should be able to mount an alternator, run the large wire from the "bat" terminal to the battery, and then have a toggle-switched, fused 12v source to the "field" terminal. In this way, I can "turn off" the alternator at pre-stage, and "turn on" the alternator at the traps, thus removing a fair amount of physical load on the engine, but still maintaining a good voltage level in the battery.

BTW......my plan is to use a Mitsu-built, internal regulator unit that was originally in my car, (compact and light weight). Am I insane about this?

Roger

Sounds almost too sane to me...

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Turning the alternator off does not save enough power to be worth the hassle of wiring it.

Other than that how's the project going Roger?

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Well, the dummy engine was fitted in a few weeks ago, and now the chassis and sub-frame connectors are stiffening things up nicely. I have some rust repair to accomplish along the rockers. The driver's side is pretty much done, but still have the passenger's side to do. Pretty bad rust over on that side. I'm gonna have to repair the front wheelwell, also. I'm lucky enough that the rear 1/2 of the car is pretty solid, so there won't be much changing with it, at least not right now.

It sure does look wrong with all of the floors cut out, except for the driveshaft tunnel. What's really gonna slow things down is all the little mods that have to be done. Gas pedal has to be modified, brake pedal adjusted to the left. Basic wiring once the engine/trans is in. It's all gonna add up in hours, but I WANNA GO RACIN'!!

Roger

I disagree. I installed a 110 amp nippendenso alternator from a 98 dodge PU. I used the standard electronic regulator for a non computer mopar, and installed a "full throttle" micro switch. The switch opens the field circuit at wide open throttle only, any other time system charges normally. That way I don't have to remember to "flip a switch". I do have a relay in the circuit, because I use the same sw to activate my nitrous system, but it would not be required, just to switch the field circuit.
If my battery is low and I open the field circuit, while idling, I get a 200 rpm increase.
I got tired of having a low battery at the track, the stock 39 amp alternator just wouldn't cut it. I have twin high pressure fuel pumps, electric fan and water pump, and a 300 watt nitrous bottle heater, then add lights for night racing.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Man, that's a good idea!

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Charrlie be a purdy smart feller, huh?

Say, "I'm a smart feller. I'm a feller smart" 3 times fast!

My Dad used to pull that one on us all the time. Good laughs! Never got tired of it for some reason.

Rob