I think others can explain this stuff better, but good luck with that thing!
I wish I could do bodywork, but I am just a screw stuff together guy...
But be careful when asking about poly or rubber, as it get personal with some people
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| what is the best way to go https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12380 |
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| Author: | newf30 [ Sat Mar 26, 2005 10:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | what is the best way to go |
Ok guy i have searched throughout the board and found so much info i am even more lost then before i started lol I am just a simple body man I got a 69 dart gt shell in my garage right now all painted ready to go (and looking very good i might ask lol) I have spared no cost on doing the body because this is what i know Now it is time for a disk break change new front end bushings ect... i have been able to find a 4' on 5 disk break set up complete this would let me keep my wheels and rear end the same but is it the best way to go or is there a better wat to go i just want a good break on the car anything has to be better then the drums I have read all the options out there but to much info for me to compute( lol to many paint fumes ) what do you guy think the best set up for a casual driver should be also what torsion bar should i use I run a 360 car had factory v8 (273 i think) last but not least what type of bushing should i use rubber or poly like I said I'm just a body man I can make them look good but need a little advice on the mechanical end of it anything else i should be aware of please let me know as i am doing this car inside out and will be looking to put as much new parts on as i can Thank you all for your help in advance |
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| Author: | Rust collector [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 5:21 am ] |
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I think others can explain this stuff better, but good luck with that thing! I wish I could do bodywork, but I am just a screw stuff together guy... But be careful when asking about poly or rubber, as it get personal with some people
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 7:57 am ] |
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Use poly bushings and a good sway bar and gas shocks. I would use the .990 torsion bar. With a 360 you will need a rear axle other than the 7.25. If you are changing rear axles then it will be easier in the long run to use later model disc brakes with the larger bolt pattern. This will make wheel choices easier as well. The earlier disc brakes you have will fetch a good price offsetting the cost of changing them to BBP. Undoutably someone will chime in later telling you all this advice is wrong. 
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| Author: | newf30 [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 8:27 am ] |
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ok I have a 8 3/4 in the rear with sbp the front set up which is sbp is 400 canadian should i use this or keep looking for a donor car to go to the bbp time is running out lol summer is coming and want to get car finished but i can not find a donor car |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 8:47 am ] |
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If you already have the 8.75 rear you might as well go sbp front as well. |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:43 pm ] |
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Quote: |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:45 pm ] |
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I'd look at the scarebird kit. I have the brackets for sale for 9" SBP drum spindles where you don't have to replace anything. You use your existing hardware and buy S10 rotors and calipers. Its a cheap alternative (about $300-$400 using all new parts, depending on the manufacturer). I've got a set for sale in the parts for sale section for $20 off retail from scarebird. With that nice 8 3/4 rear, this is the way to go for you it sounds like unless you want to spend about $1000 US and go with Wilwood or SSBC. MJ |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:12 pm ] |
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Yes! I painted this car! With a roller and safety paint! Twice a year for 10 years! Right after a new application of duct tape! This car was the Ultimate Beater! 
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| Author: | killin5 [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:27 pm ] |
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I recommend reading Tom Condran's book "Performance Handling for Classic Mopars" if you are planning to do any sort of suspension upgrade. It answers a bunch of questions to things I never even thought of asking. It covers aspects for the small bolt pattern upgrade, large bolt pattern upgrade, bushing selection, and general suspension theory. Here is the link to the book. http://www.moparpages.com/suspension_book/ Good luck, John |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:45 pm ] |
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I agree...good book. Its $30, and pretty nice. The disc brake section covers pretty much what the mopar action article does. Same info. Scarebird stuff is newer and not talked about in Condran's (1998 book here I believe). |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:47 pm ] |
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Quote: Yes! I painted this car! With a roller and safety paint! Twice a year for 10 years! Right after a new application of duct tape! This car was the Ultimate Beater!   MJ |
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| Author: | Johnny Z [ Sun Mar 27, 2005 8:59 pm ] |
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I assume what you have found is 72 & earlier kelsey hayses 4 piston brakes.That is what I would go with.Then you can keep your rare small bolt 8 3/4. Mopar alum disc brake master cyl. Rubber bushings. (will work fine for another 30 yrs). With the 360 I would go with Mopar 920" torsion bars. (Summit set $139.95) New leaf springs out back. jc whitney,espo springs & things etc. KYB shocks all the way around. (29.95 a piece Summit) Other than the torsion bars(I have 890's)these are some of the upgrades I have done to my 65 Dart.Drives real well. Good luck JZ |
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