Hello All!

I have an opportunity to get a complete disc brake setup from a '76 Dart Special Edition car.... It also has the sway bar tabs on the lower control arms.....

If I get everything from spindle to spindle will this bolt in, or is there anything else I will need to get.

Also, I will be pulling the rear end to be able to get BBP in the rear... I think it's a 7 1/4 rear, but I really don't know for sure... All I was able to tell is that it has 9 bolts on the rear cover... Any ideas? Is it worth it to pull for the bolt pattern?

I can get the rear for $56.00 and the entire front end stuff for probably $150 or so....

Any advice or info as to what to get, and what to take in the way of special tools to get this stuff out will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!

Mike

Please send all those parts (disk brakes and rear axle) to me.

Upper control arm adjuster nuts are 3/4 in I believe as it the torsion bar adjuster. Just hope that the uppers are not frozen to the bushings then it will be torch time. The LCAs with sway bar tabs are a nice find and fit only 73-76. Although they will physically fit 63 thru 72, the sway bar tabs
are in the wrong place. Ditto for the sway bar - only 73 - 76. Went thru this same senario on my 65 Dart.

Gotcha on the 3/4" bolts.... So the LCA is pretty much useless for my '64 conversion.... Will probably weld on tabs for future use when I do the brake swap....

Do I need to do anything with the torsion bars to get the rest of the stuff out?

Thanks again!

Mike

Yes to properly remove the torsion bar, you should use a torsion bar remover. Nah I'm not being a Smart A--. It's a specialized tool designed to remove bars in anything that uses the longitudinal bars. If you have one - great! If not, what you will probably have to do is release all the tension on the bar, remove the TB retaining clip at the back, remove the big nut (it might be 15/16th or thereabouts) that secures the LCA to the K Frame, remove the strut rod nut and whack the lower control arm towards the rear. This should move the TB thru the rear hex opening and you might be able to just pull the bar from the LCA. I had one so rusted in place I finally gave up on it. You might want to snag the LCAs and sway bar anyway. People are always looking for that stuff so you should be able to recoup part of your expenses (unless you want to send them to Craig). I would recommend new bushings and ball joints in the UCAs while they're out. Your 64 LCA is the same as the 76 (other than where the sway bar tabs are located. IIRC LCAs that have the tabs are all the same up thru 72. Sway bar families 64-66; 67-72 and 73-76. Glad to help - anything else let me know

Thanks Dartman! I'll try to pull the LCAs while I'm at it... I can always rework the tabs for the 64 so they will be ready to go, and rework the stock 64s to any location if somebody needs them.

Are the torsion bars interchangable, and is there any benefit to using the ones from the '76 on the '64 if so?

BTW, it's off-topic here, but I'm planning to snag a few Nippon Denso alternators to do a conversion on my '64 and my son's '70 Swinger... They sell them for $8.50 a pop at the pick-a-part I found... leme know if there's any interest....


Mike

Yes all A Body bars are interchangeable. Some will be "stronger" than others. Basic slants without AC had probably the weakest. Don't remember the part #s right off hand. I think slants with AC and V8's w/o were the next (maybe V8s w/AC also). 340/383 Darts had the best in my opinion. I'm going to run a stock V8 bar in my 65 Dart convert sl6/904 with "factory AC" swapped in from a 66 and a 383 bar in my 65 Dart wagon with a 318 or 340 (swapping from a sl6).