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| VR Conversion https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12501 |
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| Author: | vynn3 [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 11:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | VR Conversion |
I'm a little fuzzy regarding electrical systems, so please bear with me. I've got a 1967 Dart that still has the mechanical voltage regulator. I'd like to upgrade to an electronic version in preparation for electronic ignition in the future (and because I suspect the mechnical VR is on it's last leg). Frank Adkins Chrysler Performance Upgrades describes how to go about this conversion, but the instructions include upgrading to a later model alternator. Mopar Performance offers a constant voltage regulator specifically for pre-1969 cars (pn 3690732), and I'm wondering if using that would bypass the need for a newer alternator. What's the cheapest/easiest way to do the conversion? VM |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use a solid-state volatage regulator that simply replaced the electro-mechanical original. |
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| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 3:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I use a solid-state volatage regulator that simply replaced the electro-mechanical original.
That's your easiest and best bet, in my opinion. You can update to a higher amp, later style two field alternator by grounding one field and using the existing regulator wiring. I think SlantSixDan knows all of the relevant solid state conversion regulator part numbers off the top of his head...   D/W |
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| Author: | Guest [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 4:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | voltage regulator |
Most, if not all, drop-in exact fit replacement regulators are now electronic - it's cheaper than the electromechanical setups. I bought one for $10 or so from J.C.Whitney that worked fine. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Points-type regulators can still be had. NAPA Echlin VR32 or Standard-BlueStreak VR101 (stock replacement), Echlin VR34 or VR35, Standard-BlueStreak VR106 (heavy duty, with and without external voltage adjust screw). Probably others as well. Transistorised and electronic ones are available, too. NAPA Echlin VR-1001, Standard-BlueStreak VR-128, or (with inconsistent-to-poor quality), Mopar Performance P3690732 -- all the same regulator:  If you use this one, you need to make sure to scrape off the powder coating around the bolt hole or it'll full-field the alternator and let the electrical smoke out of various parts of your car. There's also the Wells VR-706, also electronic. It works, but I have a hard time trusting Wells' stuff. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Oh, and Vynn, the HEI conversion is better than using the Mopar module, allows bigger spark plug gaps, and eliminates the ballast resistor. |
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| Author: | vynn3 [ Tue Apr 05, 2005 6:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks very much for the responses. I'm going to upgrade to the electronic version, and put off an alternator upgrade until later. Again, you guys saved me some $$$, and filled in some "gaps in my mechanical comprehension". Hope someday I can contribute half as much as I gain from this site! VM |
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| Author: | gdizzle [ Fri Oct 21, 2016 2:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I wanted to add some updates I have found out while researching the Electronic Voltage Regulator, the type that are direct swap for the old mechanical type. Wells VR706 from Autozone, lasted for 5 days then failed. $33 online via eBay pick up at Autozone. Weird. AZ also can special order Duralast VR1130, for $61. Napa vr1001, perpetually out of stock, for $81. Standard Bluestreak VR128 , Rock has it $55 Oreilly has BWD R692 which no one talks about, but looks exactly like the VR128. $61 via special order. There is also the one on eBay for $18, black. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 21, 2016 2:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Wells VR706
My experience has not been good.Quote: Duralast
GarbageQuote: Napa vr1001
Fine choice.Quote: Standard Bluestreak VR128 , Rock has it $55
Fine choice, same make as Echlin VR-1001. Quote: BWD R692
Probably same make as VR-1001.Quote: There is also the one on eBay for $18, black.
I'll take "no-name parts you'll curse yourself for having bought, and it'll be on a dark, rainy Sunday night far from anywhere" for a thousand, Alex?
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| Author: | 69a100 [ Fri Oct 21, 2016 2:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Regardless of what Dan says, I've had no problems with grabbing a junkyard VR, been running one for 15+ yrs. now! READ!>>>>>http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 21, 2016 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Regardless of what Dan says
(Yeah, you go right on ahead and, uh, grab a regulator from all those old Mopars that aren't in the wrecking yards any more…  )
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| Author: | gdizzle [ Fri Oct 21, 2016 5:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Some alternate names All ain't Wells. Dur-wont-last Napa No Stock, Napa No Stock |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 21, 2016 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
NAPA: Never Any Parts Available  Damn shame; that used to be where the grownups and professionals went. Now NAPA's the same bulk wrap and fluff as all the other parts stores. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Oct 23, 2016 7:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dan: Quote: If you use this one, you need to make sure to scrape off the powder coating around the bolt hole or it'll full-field the alternator and let the electrical smoke out of various parts of your car
I purchased one of these VR, don't recall if it had power coated chasses or not, but it would spatially kick alternator to full charge for a brief moment than kick out. I also had previously installed a ground loop picking up alternator, orange box and VR. I had to replace that 1001 before all smoke was liberated from car's electrical harness; luckily no smoke was lost due to this ill fated upgrade. I replaced electronic regulator VR1001 with mechanical VR that was on the car when I purchased it on 08. It has been working perfectly since. Dan is correct, if voltage regulator ground is not of same potential as negative battery terminal (i.e. you got some voltage drop there son) it will not be able to keep harness at correct voltage. Same can be said of the + side or smoke filled side of circuit. |
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