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| Stopping pressure fitting leak https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12526 |
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| Author: | LASwinger70 [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Stopping pressure fitting leak |
on the high pressure hose fitting on my steering box it has a leak that squeezes through the passages. I believe that after years of use and multiple disconnections the threads are worn down. I am going tp ry some type of sealnt before I do any major machanical replacements. Should I use teflon tape or should I use loctite thread sealant (non-locking)? your suggestions are appreciated. My plumber suggests I use "pipe dope" what pro plumbers use, any merit to that? |
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| Author: | Slant6Ram [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Look Again |
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that the treads are the sealing factor for this part. I recall (I hope correctly so) that this is a compression style fitting. Similair to brake lines. The threaded nut applies force to a tapered flare and mating flange. No amout of tape, pipe dope, or loctite is a safe repair for a leaking connection of that design. The correct repair may involve one or more of the following. clean and lubricate treads to allow for easier tightening. clean or reflare the end of the hose. (or replace) clean or replace (not typically required to replace) the mating surface Sounds like you need to take it apart for inspection either way, so give it a second look. tape, pipe dope, or loctite might work very well on tapered theads such as plumbing or threaded manifold ports. I don't know how pipe dope reacts to chemicals, but it works great on indoor plumbing. |
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| Author: | Slant6Ram [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | And a wrench |
P.S. the correct style of wrench will allow you to tighten the nut better without rounding off the corners. Ask for a "line wrench", they really work better for this. |
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| Author: | steponmebbbboom [ Wed Apr 06, 2005 3:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It is also possible the flare is cracked, or the shank. Overtightening is the most common cause of this type of failure. Remove the fitting, draw back the flare nut, and carefully clean the flared tube and inspect very closely for small cracks or pinholes. This type of fitting does not respond well to sealant as it is the front surface of the flare that forms the seal. Also, look into the fitting recess in the steering gear and check the flare inside for damage. You will probably end up having to replace the entire hose. When you do, tighten it no more than 20 or 30 ft.lbs. Or, just snug enough that it stops leaking, and you cannot easily loosen the joint by tuurning the hose itself. There is no need to tighten any further. |
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