last week i replaced the feul pump, oil pump, oil pan gasket, and the valve cover gasket. reconnected everything. when i tried to start it it rolled over, and never started. i found a lose gas line on the line from the tank, fixed it, still no starting. the truck also since has had new rotor and cap two new sets of plugs (fouled out two sets trying to find problem). the only thing i can think of is that the timming may be off. Is there something i may be missing???? oh, the carb is also new, replaced before this work was started, it is about a month old.

the carb is a rebuilt holley 1945 one barrel. the truck is an 87 d100 slant six, currently running the spark control box ignition.

also, i am thinking of doing an hei conversion, will i need to leave the esa box hooked up for the gauges to work?

and the truck has the overdrive four speed in it.

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Well, I've got an 85 d-150 and It's been completely rewired. I might be able to offer you some help.

Is your coil throwing a good spark? (you didn't say)
Find yourself a timing light and check out what's going on with your timing. I've found that in hard starting situations that advancing the timing will get things moving and then return to proper position before driving.

You say you've installed a new carb, but has the choke been properly connected and operating. It's hard as hell to start my slant six with no choke. Is it flooding or still pretty dry when you take the air filter housing off.

Finally, give us the story that got you here. We don't mind if you are a little long winded. I would like to hear about what was happening that caused you to replace all of those parts. Did it break down while driving? or did it ever run while you've owned it? Have you made any changes to the timing? Has it run since the carb was replaced? You said new cap and rotor, how about wires condition? Are you sure you have the spark plug wires in the correct order and the cap and rotor fully seated?

Pardon all the questions, but 10 minutes worth of simple tests/checks will put us all in a lot better position to help you.

Welcome to the site.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

my father bought the truck, about 5 yers ago with a cracked exaust manifold. we replaced it with a new one he ordered, at this time all the vacume lines that had to be moved broke. all this was fixed at that time, no problems but it was hard to get started gas mileage was great. after that he left it parked in the yard most of the time for the next three years. when i moved out he gave it to me. the clutch went out on my way home from work one night, when i got the trans droped to replace it, the trans was shot to. all this was fixed. over the time my family has owned it i had noticed some oil leaks and a temdacy to burn gas when driven hard, worse in the last 2 years. while the trans was out i noticed a hole in the back of the oil pan gasket right below the rear seal about 2 inchs long. i was broke so i just put it back together then. drove it just around town while saving up to fix that. on closer insection i found the feul pump leaking, the carb falling apart and an oil leak on the back of the valve cover and a small one at the oil pump. since i now worked at oreilly auto parts, i just bought a new carb, oil pan gasket valve cover gasket, oil pump, and all new vaccume lines (i had also discovered at all the vaccume lines on the truck were routed the wrong way). after all this was installed i tried to start it and for the first time since it has been in my family it failed to start.

the distributor appears to be a single contact model on this truck, and the truck is a standard 3 speed with over drive. the truck was running better than ever after i replaced the carb, but still loseing gas mileage, now just when ever it heated up on long trips. if i drove it over 40 miles or so it would allways burn about half a tank. thats when i saw the pump diapharm leaking. i also think the choke may be acting up, but i can't find anything wrong with it other than a little rust. with the new carb all i had to do was turn the key and it would start, if cold day just tap the gas then it would start right up. before carb was replaced you would have to pump gas start then rev it for about a minute or two to get it to idle. i really enjoy driving this truck, and since it was free to me, i want to fix it back up, not a hot rod but just a good looking dayily driver.

When the fuel pump diaprham fails on a slant six, frequently gasoline mixes with the crankcase oil. You should change the oil/filter NOW! The thinned out oil may be part of the reason you are fouling plugs so quickly.

I doubt the timing has changed, but it is possible that the plastic gear is broken. That's not the first thing I would suspect in your situation.

Past experience shows that the first thing to suspect is the last item you fiddled with,(or 'I' fiddled with) so re-check the distributor cap and rotor, the carb, and the vacuum lines. Make sure the carb mounting bolts are tight and open the air cleaner housing to see if the choke is functioning properly.

Did I mention, Change you Oil!

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

that was old feul pump leaking, that why it was replaced. the starting problem has been since then, new gas lines, pump and filter installed. i used a vaccume pump to check for leaks in feul lines and to prime the pump( pulled gas into line before hooking to pump.) i know its getting gas, becuse it is fouling out plugs. i don't really think it's out of time, but i thought that should be checked before i go any further, since it was running before, allthough not quite right. it was slow and had to be nursed up to top speed, about 70 to 75 i think. i'm trying to get it back in running shape to have it painted this summer. probably dodge orange with barracuda inspired graphics., as soon as i get it to start i will change the oil before driving, i want to check for seal leaks before i spend any more money on oil.

You said it has been flooded several times...have you performed a compression check recently? All that gas dumping through the cylinders can wash the cylinder walls, and significantly drop compression. Without "squish" there is no "bang".

Do you have 12 volts at the coil positive terminal with the key in the "run" position?

-S/6

i have not checked the voltage, but their is spark there and at the plug.

If you have fuel and spark, that only leaves compression and/or timing.

Do you have access to a compression gauge and timing light?

I ordered a comp cam for my 85 d-150 from PAW. The price was very reasonable. I don't have the spec card in front of me. but the cam really increased the low end torque. ( at least it feels thay way)I'll get the specs tomorrow and post them. I don't see where the ECU would have any bearing on your gauges.

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There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

not sure about compression, nothing i've done should have affected thst. Ive got some fresh eyes coming by today to see if i missed something, hes going to give me a hand trying to time it.

does anyone know if theirs a fuseible link going to the gauges and if so where it might be?

i may go ahead and put my new ignition system on today after he gets here.

The gauges are powered through a fuse. If you blew a fuseable link, you will have other things not working too. Fuseable links only blow when you have a serious wire short.

All the fuseble links are in a bundle on top of the left front inner fender near the hood hinge.

found the fusable link busted that went to my gauges, they work now, their is 12 volt at the coil positive terminal. i think i traced the positive wire to the voltage regulater, timing was good. i weas told it appeared to have good compression. i'm thinking about doing asn hei conversion for the ignition, but all the wireing i see for it shows a ballast resistor, i don't belive i have one of those, could someone tel me for sure, i don't see it in the manual for this year model eitheir.