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Timing problems https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12693 |
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Author: | Eric F. [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:32 am ] |
Post subject: | Timing problems |
this is a question for a 318 but I am sure some one here can help. I have replaced my dist with a recurved mp distributer. I set timing to factory spec (5*at idle) and it was really slugish and popping through the carb until 20 mph then it really took off. I adjusted the the timing 1 degree at a time until the problem was gone(13* at idle) now I have a knock if I back off even 1* it is a little slugish and lets out a small pop through the carb. The question is if I leave my timing at 13* and run hi test gas will I be ok or should I try something else? a few factors I did readjust by 2bbl and the vaccume advance is working properly. |
Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 9:19 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I wouldn't go BACK from 13 BTDC on a 318. since stroke is much less shorter than a slant six (like one inch less) they can take more advance. If I recall correctly, they can take as much as 36 BTDC total mech+initial (I've heard of some 318 taking more advance but they weren't anywhere near performance oriented, I guess that we can compare this to the "nominal" 32 degrees on a slant that goes down to 30 or even less if your mill is gonna see lotsa WOT) So if you know your govnor ratio on your new dist, just add a li'l to that initial timing til you dial in a nice off idle and performance. I had a recurved 318 that had 17 initial and it was a killer!. |
Author: | Eric F. [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 10:46 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks but what about my pinging and knocking? |
Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 11:43 am ] |
Post subject: | |
you say that she'll knock if you back the timing even 1ª... that sounds like initial (timing) way too retarded. How sure we are that the dampner has a true TDC mark? When you're 13 BTDC initial by your mark, do you get any pinging when revving up or not? If you're not sure about the dampner, a good "by-eye" way of dialing it in is advancing the dist, full throttle it in short runs till it pings a li'l (just a tad) and then back off 1 or 2 degrees. |
Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 11:47 am ] |
Post subject: | |
and, I don't wanna spoil your day, but those symptoms (not simpsons, huh? ) that you're describing could be timing chain jump related... or maybe your dist ended up installed 1 tooth back or forth (I dunno 318's dist rotating direction) |
Author: | Eric F. [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:09 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
the pinging starts at about 1500 rpm when reving, I am sure of the damper mark, and I dont think it is a timing chain. This car had 41000 |
Author: | Craig [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Why did you change distributors? Was it running OK before the swap? The MP distributor is probably set up with a FAST advance curve so you are getting way too much advance at low RPM. These distributors are for race cars, not street driven cars. This may be the cause of your ping. I'm not sure about the sluggishness you describe unless you have other problems elsewhere. Others will have suggestions. |
Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Wed Apr 20, 2005 8:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
well it seems I got it all wrong from the first place. I understood that you got knockin if you backed up those 13 btdc initial. if you full trhottle it, it pings? if no, mybe your vac pod is too light I'm seconding craig's comment on the MP dist. |
Author: | Eric F. [ Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:59 am ] |
Post subject: | |
the orgional distributor was not advancing properly. I drove it for 1000 miles with no problem then it was boging out on hard acceleration right after a shift either down or up. I thought it was a carb problem then found that the advance was really dirty so I sprayed it with brake cleaner then lubed it with wd40 and it worked great for 20 minutes until the lube evaporated. |
Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:10 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Craig's got a thought worth following up on. Most of those MP distributors come with *one* really lightweight mechanical advance spring...and no spring at all on the other side. This dumps in all the mechanical advance in a very big hurry and as Craig says is not very well suited to street driving. Check your mechanical advance carefully. Also, I'm assuming this is an electronic distributor, but on the chance that it isn't, remember that a worn intermediate bushing can cause, on an LA V8 with points-condenser distributor, dwell/timing problems such that you can get them set up correctly below OR above about 1500 rpm, but not both. |
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