How much can you expect out of a 350 cfm 2bbl? And what will I have to do to get it? Which Cam? How much head milling? Oversize valves? Headers a must! Duals?

I have read all the Clifford data and the Slant Six Racing Manual but I would like to know what I can expect after I do the work.

It will net far more power than a 1bbl or Carter BBD with the right combo of mods.

Should be no trouble running in the 15s with a 350 2bbl, depends on car of course.

Your question was pretty vague, so I'm doing some guessing here...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I am in the process of picking the combination of performance parts for my 225 sl 6 rebuild and need some guidance. So far, it is Clifford headers and intake manifold, 350cfm Holley, 0.020 oversize pistons, stock valves, head milled 0.090, A-833 OD, Borg & Beck 10 clutch, 3.55 rear end. I am wrestling with the right cam to make all this complete. There are several to choose from Chrysler 234 or 342 or Cliffords or Comp Cam? I want to drive it to work and it to run in the 14's or 15's.
By the way this is a '80 truck 225 Sl 6.

It will be difficult to get it into the 15s with the mods you suggest. Trucks are HEAVY.

You'll need at least the COMP 264 cam, and probably bigger (like 230-240 @ 0.050"). Bigger valves (try Ferrea) and porting on the head. 390 or 500 4bbl carb or similar. High stall converter (9.5 or 10" with 2800 rpm or higher stall, rated for a Slant not a V8). 3.23 gears or numerically higher. Header and 2.5" or bigger single exhaust.

I would mill 0.080" off the head and 0.040" off the block, or some other similar combination to raise comp further. You'll need custom pushrods.

This is a start anyway...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It is a D150 truck. It doesn't weigh that much. Should I dual it out or just single exhaust?

A truck might already have 3.55 gears out back Lou. Trucks have taller tires (usually) and most trucks have the lower first gear in the transmission. This is all factory equipment to get that big truck moving with the six.

bwhitejr: Yes, compared to Lou's little car or some of the other racers around here, a D-150 is HUGE! My BIG and HEAVY Aspen (so I'm told) feels like a tiny clown car after driving my D-150 around for a while.

You'll really need to do some serious mods to get into the 15's with your D-150. I don't plan to race my truck, but if you want real numbers and experience, you've got to talk to another racing slant six trucker, and there arn't too many out there. I saw a pic of a guy with a turbo in the slant six racing news last year.

The biggest asset that you have with racing a truck is plenty of room under the hood for power adding modifications.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

You don't need duals, so only do it for looks. 2.5" single with a header is all you'll need.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Alright, so I can't easily get into the 15's. What would I have to have to get into the 16's or 17's with a daily driver?

Now Doug, you know tht's cheating.

I would never stoop to such a level.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I always heard that only babies needed a bottle.

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Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD

This discussion could go down hill rather quickly if we take it in that direction.



Don't you need to purpose build a slant to stand up to repeated shots of that bottle? Cast iron pistons or something right?

Is 17 ish possible without turbo or juice?(in a truck) Anybody have any real numbers on trucks? This is the stuff I can think to do and still keep it mostly streetable, although not very comfortable or practical for daily use. Shorter rear end gears, high compression, ported head, racing torque converter, racing cam, 4bbl carb, 2.5" exhaust, Electric Fan, Manual Steering Box, Weight reduction.

I don't tend to believe that it's enough to get it done with all that truck attached to it. I love my truck, but it ain't no race car.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Realistically, 17's should be real easy in a truck, especially with a manual trans.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sure, it is great to build a Slant with all the good stuff and tweak it in so it runs fast on it's own, but....

It is also fun to take a bone stock SL6, right down to the 1 BBL carb. and factory exhaust, spray it and knock 3 seconds off the ET.

I will admit that I put a 3.55 rear gear into the car and then swapped my short 205-50 front tires to the rear for the track runs, in order to get a lower effective gear ratio but let's face it, I drove the car to Las Vegas, raced it all weekend on spray, running high 15's, then drove home, refilled the bottle, drove to Redding the next weekend, raced it on spray.....
Went to the final round on both weekends and made it home with-out blowing-up the car or my wallet.

You can turn a slow vehicle fast with that blue bottle but at $4.50 a pound, you got to keep your finger off the button until you really need it.

Speaking of really needing it, I came across a hot 68 Chebby Cramero on my way home from work the other night.... We got lined-up at the next stop light and I cranked-open the bottle. Pulled him a good car length off the start and into second gear.
I let off at that point, just to watch him fly by in a roar and turn-off at the next light.
To bad, I didn't get a chance to tell him that he just got wacked by a Slant.
DD

That is a good example of "pay me now, or pay me later". With "normal" hop ups, or turbos, you pay the money up front. Unless you break something, thats it. With nitrous, it's inexpensive for the amount of power gained, but you have to keep paying, and paying, and paying. The nitrous companies don't bring this up, when they say it is the most bang for the buck.
I get my nitrous from a welding supply company, in large tanks. Cost is about $1.00/lb that way.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225