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| Broken whel stud https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13026 |
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| Author: | Guest [ Tue May 17, 2005 8:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Broken whel stud |
Well today i had a little bad luck today first i ran my tank dry playing around with the motor i get some gas in it. and on may way to the junk yard my right rear tire blew out. lucky me had two spares lucky me ah. well i made it home and notice on the left side rear i had two busted sutds just behined the rim. so i ask how easy is it to fix and can an average joe fix it. or would it be best to take it to a shop . i have a 7 1\4 |
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| Author: | moparDuster [ Tue May 17, 2005 8:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
guess i should have signed in first and lean how to spell wheel first before i try fixen any thing |
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| Author: | Johnny Z [ Tue May 17, 2005 9:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Take the drum off. Bang the old studs out,a big sledge will work. Bang the new ones in.Studs are usually available at most parts stores. Some of the studs are left handed threads,so be careful. ps: I replaced all my left handed studs with standard studs. JZ |
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| Author: | moparDuster [ Tue May 17, 2005 9:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
well that sound easy enogh but dont i have to take off any thing else? wont the brake shoes be in the way? |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Tue May 17, 2005 10:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Huh ? |
I think the previous instructions for the Front lugs - The rear studs will be retained in the axle shaft flange. I would pull the axle shaft and bring it to a place with a press. They can press the broken studs out and new ones in before you could get your hammer out of the tool box. Somewhat of an exaggeration, but they will have it done quickly. |
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| Author: | moparDuster [ Tue May 17, 2005 10:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
thats what i was thinking i was going to have to do. but how easy is it to remove the axle and put it back in. i never done any thing like this before so plese forgive my stupid questions. |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Tue May 17, 2005 10:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | It is not too hard but not easy either |
If you are comfortable replacing a rear brake cylinder I would say try it. If not take it to the shop. It looks like from the 63 shop manual the drum comes off then the bolts holding the backing plate, brake assembly, and axle retainer plate are removed. These bolts are accessed through the holes in the axle flange. Then the shop would use a slide hammer bolted to the studs to pull the axle. You could probably bolt the wheel back on to pull it out. The thing I would be most concerned with is damaging the brake hose or wheel cyl while the assembly is unbolted. It would have to be supported or removed while working on the axle. If the brakes got damaged, you would need to fix them before the car could move again. Since you were comfortable with wheel cylinder replacement, you could just fix the brakes and be done. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Tue May 17, 2005 11:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would think there's enough clearance behind the axle flange that you could hammer the old stud out (might have to rotate the axle just so....) I'd try it with a big brass punch (after liberally spraying with liquid wrench and letting it soak). Then line up the new stud and pull it into place with the lug nuts (backwards with washers so you're flat and don't mess up the flange) I that doesn't work, then take the axle out. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Wed May 18, 2005 5:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I would think there's enough clearance behind the axle flange that you could hammer the old stud out (might have to rotate the axle just so....)
What he said. The hardest part will be removing the brake drum, if it is rusted on.I'd try it with a big brass punch (after liberally spraying with liquid wrench and letting it soak). Then line up the new stud and pull it into place with the lug nuts (backwards with washers so you're flat and don't mess up the flange) I that doesn't work, then take the axle out. The front studs are swedged to the drum and hub. This swedge needs to be cut off before removing the stud, so the drum is not ruined. As also stated, stok factoy studs are left handed on the left side of the car, right handed on the right side of the car. |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Wed May 18, 2005 7:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I really don't like banging on things with bearings. Sometimes necessary, but ... Is there any way to press the stud out in situ? Big C-clamp, sockets, etc? |
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| Author: | moparDuster [ Wed May 18, 2005 4:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well my fear of messing some thing up made me take it to the shop. they want 52 for parts and labor to fix two busted studs. |
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| Author: | killin5 [ Thu May 19, 2005 8:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
On my 63 valiant with a 7 1/4 I was able to hammer it it without any problems. There was plenty of room. I hadn't thought about bearings though. I guess I got lucky. I replaced one in the front at the same time. That did not go as smooth. John |
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| Author: | bondo_jonze [ Mon May 30, 2005 9:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
52 dollars seems quite high. the shop I work at charges 2-4 dollars for a stud, and 10 dollars to install, hammered out and pulled through with the lug nut method above. with air tools it takes 3-5 minutes per stud. It usualy takes longer for the studs to be delivered from the local parts house then the job takes. I have NEVER had a bearing problem doing it this way and I have done hundreds of them at least. just my $0.02 worth |
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