OK, then. Opinions differ, even amongst different-year factory shop manuals, as to whether you should start with the corner closest to the master cylinder (left front) or with the corner farthest from the master cylinder (right rear). Pick one procedure or the other. I usually start with the left front.
First, do an inspection. If you've got disc brakes, make sure the bleeder screws are at the top of the calipers, not at the bottom. If they're at the bottom, the calipers are improperly installed and you'll never be able to get a successful bleed (air rises!). Also, pay some attention to the bleeders themselves. If they're old and/or rusty, they can be very difficult or impossible to open.
You'll need a supply of the proper grade of brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, all of which are intermixable. not DOT 5 silicone fluid, unless you have completely converted your system to that fluid, in which case that is the only type you can use.). You'll need a clear see-through jar. You'll need some flexible plastic tubing, preferably see-through, of the correct size to fit firmly over the nipple on the end of each bleeder screw. Check this in advance; sometimes the front and rear bleeder nipples are different sizes.
Pour some brake fluid into the jar, about 2" deep. Push one end of the tubing over the left front bleeder nipple and put the other end of the tubing into the jar so that it is submerged in the fluid. Make sure the brake master cylinder is topped right up with brake fluid. Put the cover on the master, but there's no need to secure it with the bolt or spring clamp.
One person "A" operates the bleeder with an appropriate wrench, and the other person "B" operates the brake pedal, like this:
"A" pumps the brake pedal until it's firm, keeps his foot pressing on the pedal, and calls out "UP!". At that point, "B" opens the bleeder. The pedal will sink to the floorboard, and brake fluid with air bubbles will be expelled from the tubing into the jar. As soon as the pedal hits the floor, "A" calls out "DOWN!", and holds the pedal in the fully-down position until "B" has closed the bleeder.
Repeat the above until clean, bubble-free brake fluid emerges from the tube into the jar, stopping to check the fluid level in the master cylinder every five cycles or so. Do not allow the brake pedal to spring back with the bleeder open, or air will be drawn into the system.
Then move to the right front, then the left rear, then the right rear.
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). I don't know about the quality of the ones in the Help area, so I'd stay with Russell. If I remember, I paid around 14 or 15 bucks for two. The Help ones are a few dollars cheaper. I don't have the part number needed, the package is buried someplace in my dads car shop (like him, I never throw anything away). I'll look next weekend (Tuesday-Wednesday for me) if intrested. The work on the wheel cylinders for 10" drums. Should be same for 11", might be to big for 9" drums.