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pcv valve
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13157
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Author:  Murch [ Fri May 27, 2005 8:31 pm ]
Post subject:  pcv valve

I have a 64 Dart with a 170. I have been trying to come up with a very smooth streetable running engine. After much great advise on this site I'm almost there. My question (which I'm certain Dan won't let me down) is regarding the pcv valve. It's not stuck but I believe it's not functioning as it should. I've tried to order replacement pcv valves but none seem to be the right one. The one I have seems to screw on a curved tube, through a cap. All the ones I have gotten are the push type with a grommet (echlin #2, 3 & 5). Do I have to modify or is the original type still available? Dan, by the way right you were re: the throttle shaft bushings. I found a place outside of Chicago that did the job for $30.00, while I waited- Vat a difference! Thanks, Dale

Author:  emsvitil [ Fri May 27, 2005 8:47 pm ]
Post subject: 

I just cleaned mine out with spray carb cleaner, then brake cleaner to remove the carb cleaner.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri May 27, 2005 9:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

The 170 needs to use a PCV valve that has a smaller bore than the valve used on 198 and larger engines. It's been N/A for years. Even the larger-bore metal-type PCV valve has been N/A for quite some time. You can buy new ones (eBay, Year One, etc.) for more $$ than they should cost.

The late-style all-plastic valves work perfectly in a '66-up valve cover, acceptably OK in the up-to-'65 valve cover. If you're shopping at NAPA, get an Echlin 2-9325 valve and a Balkamp 6301051 or 6301073 grommet.

The way you make this valve work with your '64 valve cover: Remove the metal valve and its locknut. Save the 2-legged spring from the underside of the PCV valve "cap" that fits on the valve cover. Make a sandwich in this order: PCV valve (push the non-hose end through the cap from outside to inside), spring retainer, grommet (push onto non-hose end of PCV valve from the bottom). Sometimes the spring retainer won't fit over the plastic valve and you have to leave it off. Push this "sandwich" onto the valve cover chimney. It won't look original, but it'll fit and work fine.

Image

The old metal valves can be cleaned and re-used for years, but after awhile they just plain wear out. The spring gets tired, the plunger gets worn, and then they cause poor idling.

Author:  Murch [ Sat May 28, 2005 4:41 am ]
Post subject: 

Dan you're my parts sl6 hero! I do have an 9325. " Grasshopper, when you can walk on the rice paper etc...) lol! Thanks so much, Dale

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat May 28, 2005 8:06 am ]
Post subject: 

Glad to help! (and yeah, rebushed throttles really help a lot, eh? We don't notice the deterioration 'cause it happens gradually, but then when it's fixed...!)

Author:  65Dodge100 [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 5:41 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
If you're shopping at NAPA, get an Echlin 2-9325 valve and a Balkamp 6301051 or 6301073 grommet.
Dan, when doing this conversion on a 225 engine, would you use NAPA Echlin 2-9207 valve and the same grommet?

Thanks,
Danny

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:31 am ]
Post subject: 

H'mmm. I'm running into some strange dead-end cross references when I try to sort out which valve to use for a 170 vs. larger engines. The NAPA cataloguing I have available right now is useless. I'll need to check with Standard Motor Products to see which valve flows more, but at the moment it looks like a Standard V-253 or V-165 would be the ones to pick.

Author:  65Dodge100 [ Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:37 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks Dan

Author:  Herr Otto [ Mon Sep 13, 2010 2:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

SlantsixDan, first question is, does a 1965 slantsix225 have a PCV valve, if so would the part numbers you listed in previuos post work on my engine? I am a little confused as I would think I would have a large vacuum leak since the valvecover has the breather cap also in it which means the valvecover is not air tight.
Thank you,
Herr Otto

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