I really need some advice as I'm making some long-term plans for upgrading the suspension on my Lancer. Here are my goals and uses for the car:

1--make it handle very well, better than most modern cars on the street today.

2--don't want to lose any teeth because everything is so tight in achieving #1 (ie: this is not a an autocross racer....yet)

3--I'd drive this car regularly on the street, and if it gets good enough, I'd like to try it out at a track (not drag strip) at some point.


So the Lancer ain't the best car for racing by far, but its my first start and learning how to do it. So that's where I am.

Budget, I'm restricted big time. I want to use as many used parts as possible, using my labor to make things work. I'd also like to learn some small fabrication skills along the way, just to make things interesting

Drats, gotta go to a meeting, I'll post my actual plans for parts when I get back and then get some feedback from you guys.

MJ

Full-race street engine, red-hot ice cube, '62 Lancer that handles better than most modern cars on the street today while remaining comfy enough for family trips. None of these is ever gonna happen.

You've got a 43-year-old car. You'll want to readjust your goals to include more realism, so that you can continue to enjoy the car, improve its handling to the point where it's easily compatible with modern traffic demands, and not bankrupt yourself doing it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yeah well, it won't be AS good as my brand new car, but a lot better than what it is now. Considering that its pretty pooped now, I'm going along the lines of moderate upgrades in the tbars, shocks, springs, and such that will make it work well. Is it going to beat a new porsche through a turn? Nah. Am I going to be racing a new porsche around on the street? Nah. Just want to make it handle very competently and have a good time doing it.

oh yeah, and check this for your red-hot ice cube needs http://www.flamingice.com/

If you haven't already, read "Performance Handling for Classic Mopars" by Tom Condran, and "Chrysler Performance Upgrades" by Frank Adkins.
http://www.earlyvaliant.org/tech/books.htm#2
They'll give you a lot to think about. Neither is perfect or completely up to date, but they are pretty good.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

If you want some fabrication projects, think about lower control arm reinforcement plates, and subframe connectors. You won't need them right away, but they won't hurt anything and can help other modifications work better. Besides, they can be done on the cheap.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I think you would be happy with the car's performance if you just did the regular suspension upgrade stuff:

New bushings, tie rods, etc.

Heavier torsion bars: .920" is my preference

Good quality shocks: Edelbrock IAS have been good for me

Rebuild steering box if necessary or replace

Upgrade to disc brakes, if you haven't done so already (and make sure all brakes and bearings all around are good)

Quality front end alignment

I know none of these things make due with used parts, but when you're talking suspension there's not much you can get used (MAYBE torsion bars, but hard to find heavier ones)

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

Patrick has a good start there.

If you really want handling, then bigger/better tires and wheels will be necessary, but you don't have to break the bank for these necessarily.

Will you be lightening the car any?

For a really cheap start, get KYB shocks all around and the 4-leaf JCW springs. Edel shocks if you can afford them. Alignment (get them to check all play in joints/rods and ride height). Drop ride height 1/2-3/4". Caster +1deg, camber -0.25deg, toe 1/16". These are ballpark settings, and should be doable with your stock bushings. Make sure steering box is tight, and/or adjust backlash setting on top of box.

0.890" or 0.920" T-bars and front sway bar would be next. After that, you need wheels/tires to give you much more performance. I assume you have *cough* 13s on there now?

Brakes are a must as well. Cheap option is 73-76 A-body 11" discs. Find a donor car (junkyard maybe?). CA junkyards will have some of these. Really just need spindles and UCAs and can buy rest at parts store.

My 64 Dart outhandles MANY modern cars. No, not Vettes and Porsches, but many...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have 14x6 215/60/14s on there. BFG Radial TAs, nothing great, but not terrible. Also have KYBS all around


Have a set in my garage. Was going to stay with SBP since I got the wheels and tires for a very good price. Found a set of SBP discs cheap in CA, just waiting for me to come out. I thought for the time SBP would be better as well since I have no rear axle changes to make, and the 7.25 should be fine for my purposes.

I'll do some thinking on the suspension setup for the alignment. I figured I'd wait on alignment until I've put in the discs, torsion bars, etc.

Upgraded suspension pieces can help make your car firmer and more stable but the limiting factor in my opinion is going to be the unibody chassis itself. The early A bodies were good for their time but are pretty flexy when compared to today's cars or even later A bodies. Stiffening the springs and swaybars too much will just make your car jittery and uncomfortable on the sreet. A full roll cage would go a long way toward tying the front and rear together and allow softer springing but that doesn't sound like it plays into your concept of a street driver. You can still make a nice handling car that is pleasant to drive with just a step or two in spring rates, quality shocks and moderate swaybars but don't expect to outhandle modern cars with it. Upgrades to steering, brakes and tires give the biggest payback when better feel is the goal.

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"Former Owner" of '65 Barracuda, 225, Auto, MP 2bbl intake, MP cam, Dutra Duals. Presently Moparless.