does anybody know aproximately how much it might cost to sand blast everything on the body and frame of my car (after stripping it down first!)???

You don't want to do that. You'll never be able to get all the sand out all the crevices, frame rails, etc and it will come back to haunt you when you start painting.

That being said, I knew someone that did so. Guy locally charged him $500 to blast the under carriage, engine compartment, and trunk. The whole car, fenders (front and back sides), engine bay, and inside would of been $1500.

Are you planning on doing a rotisserie restoration?

Here there's a place called Master Blasters that would do a body for $600 if it were fully dismantled, probably a lot more for an assembled car. Seems to be popular, I had a fender sandblasted and it worked well. Something I'm curious about is while in class the teacher was talking about using water blasting to take off paint and the end result is a rust and paint free polished surface that actually has to be scuffed before painting.

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My car may be slow to sixty, but at least it's been reliably slow to sixty for more than thirty years.

what all do you mean by rotisserie restoration?

I was just trying to figure out the best method for getting rid of all the rust on everything so that I could cover those areas up. Mostly I am just trying to get an idea of methods and prices for the future restoration I would like to do.

I think the worst part is going to be dealing with my left quarter panel. Of course rust and most rust. But thing is apparantly my car before i owned it was hit in the quarter panel, there ended up a hole there, and a half assed bondo job was done so that moisture was getting under the bondo and through into the trunk. That could mean a new quarter panel?!?!!!!!

instead of water blasting or whatever, you could just pour brake fluid or paint remover on!!!! haha!
is Soda blasting using acid?

Imagine two engine stands, one on each end of the car, so when y ou want to work on the bottom you would turn the car like it were an engine on the stand.

The blasting cost also varies wildly by how much stuff has to be removed. If the guy has to go through layers of bondo and undercoating, its going to be more & then just removing factory paint.

How rusty is the car that you want to get the whole thing blasted? You may be better off just cleaning/repairing the areas that need to be, not the whole body, then use some form of chemical stripper for the rest of the paint as suggested before.

Sandblasting will show you truth.......truth as to how muchdecent metal you still have left. If you watch it being done, you will be dismayed to see your "metal" just disappearing before your eyes. Thing is, when it's done, what you have left is real metal that can be welded to without burning away. If you do iron,though, you gotta get it primered right away, as it'll form a coat of rust within 24 hours.

Soda blasting; Same basic techniques as sandblasting, just using baking soda instead of sand. There are a batch of different materials one can use for blasting; sand, baking soda, crushed glass, tiny plastic beads, crushed walnut shells, etc. The desired finish will somewhat dictate the material used....coarse sand, coarse finish.....fine sand, fine finish.

Roger

The other problem with abrasive blasting is the terrific warp job it does on sheetmetal due to localised heat.

Redi-Strip's better.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Whoops!..forgot to mention the heat factor. Dan's right....you gotta be real careful what and when you blast something, or you'll have a panel that looks like a roller coaster.

Guy I work with does blasting as a sideline, and he can blast bodies in the summer, but it's almost gotta be done under shade, and you spend very little time in one spot with the blaster. Then again, he's got a big pressure blaster that he uses.

Roger

thanks for all that information evreyone!
actually, the worst part on my car is the trunk. Its almost complete rust, and all the tiny crevaces and hard to get at area are intimidating my idea of using a sander to get rid of it all. My engine bay would be next. and it seems quite a bit of rust has got behind the fenders and the door hinge areas. I was thinking those spots would be about all I might need blasted.

yeah, don't abuse the sandblasting or you'll end up spending more money in body prep for painting, not to mention the huge amount of bondo and filler you gonna need to make that body look somewhat straight. Definitely NOT blasting on fenders, doors, roof, trunk lid or so. floors maybe, trunk floor ok, engine bay ok, but all the other things could end more screwed up than they were at the begining

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

There are skilled sandblasting techs that do very good jobs... you just need to find where all the restoration gurus bring there cars. Personally the closest I've gone to sandblasing is using one of the semi-portable units that has the gun, sand canister, and a vacuum attached. Not high powered and can only do about an inch at a time(I.E. spot repairs, you'll be blasting a real long time if you try to do a whole car with it), it's an awesome tool though. Wish I could afford one

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My car may be slow to sixty, but at least it's been reliably slow to sixty for more than thirty years.

i was looking in the jc whitney catalog. they had what seemed to be a decent portable sandblaster for like $60 and 25lb of the blaster material for $30. I think im better off with a sander!