upper, far right (towards dashboard) exhaust stud was busted inside the head when i got it. with the new manifold in hand, i decided it was a nice time to drill it, and "easy out" it......

the damn easy out broke off flush in the aforementioned stud, which was broken off recessed in the head to begin with..

help?
anyone?

i read about that kind of situation in car craft magazine.
the machine shop may torch it out or maybe drill it out.
could possibly use flat pin punch and flatten broken area and
drill slowly with cobalt drill bit.

I can't believe it. I have this same exact problem. I broke off my easy out last weekend. I've been all over the internet looking for some help. I found quite a few responses on another slant 6 forum you can look at. Go to www.slantsix.com and go into their discussion forum and you'll see my posts. I got a lot of good replies. I just haven't tried any yet. If you get a chance before I do, I would appreciate letting me know which way worked for you and I'll do the same.
Thanks,
Doug

"Easy outs" almost never work. Best plan is to carefully drill progressively larger holes on center of the broken stud, the work the thread "shell" out. It's never easy, and takes lots of practice and poking and prodding. If you already broke off the hardened "easy out", that makes it 10 times harder. I have been there/done that in my "early daze". You can burn up some carbide Dremel bits (or stones) and try to grind out the broken piece of tool. Using a torch to anneal the tool steel can help some.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

get yourself one lathe tool cobalt bit, say square 1/4" by 4" long. Shape the tip like a chisel with a grinder and crack the easy out out. Then insert a 10 inches file handle into the hole and work it out (I mean, the steel portion of the file that usualy goes into the wood or plastic handle)

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Take a hammer and a center punch and shatter it apart, or at least drive it through the bottom of the stud.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

this here seems to be my option, since my tool selection, and fudget is limited.
anyone else think this is worth a go?

and its a no go
tried the centerpunch method, and, nothing.
tried drilling a little more,got a little ways..
why do i have the feeling that the head will be off tomorrow, and be dropped off at the local machine shop monday?

Your best option is still drilling... just start with a pretty small bit (<1/8"), and work your way up gradually, then tap it when you get to the appropriate size bit. All you have to do is drill level and it works every time.

welp... drained the coolant, and pulled off the head. it was a bitch getting to that last stud by the firewall with the head in place. the crud on the pistons was next to nothing. a thin layer of blackness that just wipes right off !
no time like the present to replace those valve seals that somehow still work without even being seated down on the head, and tend to those rusty looking keepers on 5 and 6 from sitting for so many years.

My karma attracts busted and grown in bolts and such in the seconds I get out of junkers. In years of working with them I too find the drill and drill the best way but that is like spilled milk in your case. An old timer showed me the way that never fails me...get your torch out and get the bolt or stud really hot...then touch a paraffin block to it. Of course, hot is experiential like "tight" enough on 3/8 bolts, but you won't melt the stud or whatever!

The paraffin will suck in the threads like solder does in copper pipe joints. Occasionally the paraffin will fire up and of course it is very flammable so be careful!! but generally one or two heats and paraffins will enable you to remove anything you can drill or chisel a small grab hole into. Paraffin is easily available in blocks in hardware stores.
rock
'64 d100