I need to replace the park/nutral shift cable i my '63 Valiant. Does anyone know where I might find one?

Ummmmmmmm...Here y'go. Brand new ones.

Don't know how that price compares to what AutoCables would charge to supply and ship from Australia.

And Andy Bernbaum might have 'em in stock, too. His official year cutoff is '62, but '62-'64 A-bodies all used the same shift cables.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm not sure what the issue is with your existing cable but here are some tips I received from Pat Blais when I was inquiring about purchasing a new cable for my 63 valiant. It is not often that a vendor tells you how to fix a problem instead of selling you a part they have. Either way, Pat would be a good resource. The contact info is listed below.

Assuming you have not found the leak to
be
the PARK cable 'O' ring at the PARK cover or the PARK cover itself,
proceed as follows below. Keep in mind that often the cover gets
over-tightened (when trying to cure a leak) and can be warped,
aggravating the problem. If the cover ends up being a problem, best to
remove it and carefully "dress" it flat again with a file, or sandpaper
on a piece of glass. Check it with a straightedge. Accurately finding
the leak-point is primary.

Sleeving the cable: 1. preferably use a length of 3/8" ID fuel hose
that
will go from where the cable enters the Torqueflite all the way up to
the firewall (this makes an effective "standpipe"). 2. best to install
the "sleeve" from the top; disconnect the cable at the pushbutton
mechanism being VERY careful to only open the "pinch-clamp" that holds
the cable just enough to free the cable. 3. attach a piece of mechanics
wire, etc. to the free end of the cable about a foot longer than the
3/8" hose. 4. use aerosol silicone spray on the outside of the entire
cable sheath (trim away any ragged sheath pieces first) and the inside
of the 3/8" hose. 5. fish the wire through the 3/8" hose and pull the
hose over the cable until it contacts and slides over the metal ferrule
(cable end) at the Torqueflite. 6. use a small hose clamp to secure the
hose on the metal ferrule. 7. re-attach the cable to the pushbutton
mechanism, again being careful to only squeeze the "pinch-clamp" just
enough to secure the cable. 8. insure that the re-installed cable is
not
going to contact the exhaust pipe.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks; let me know if I can be of further assistance with parts or
information.
Pat

Please note: PERSONAL or BUSINESS checks require 15 banking days to
clear before shipping merchandise.

Pat Blais
Pat Blais Transmissions
Seattle
Specializing in 1960-1965 727 & 904 Torqueflites (1966+ also)
ALSO NOTE: new email address tflitepatty@verizon.net

Yep, I've sleeved burnt cables, too. I use a similar technique, but I clean the cable with red-label BraKleen, then squirt Mopar RTV Silicone inside the split-lengthwise piece of hose. I push the hose onto the cable, twist and slide it to spread the silicone, then tighten the hose clamps (but not too tight). THe silicone helps ensure a leakproof fix.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My cable had the end broken off at the park lever. I got a new one from Imperial Services which took care of the problem. Be prepared to wait awhile while they make a cable, these things are not off the shelf.

If you run into any problems at the tranny end of things, Pat Blais carries the seal and cover for the parking cable.

Kevin

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63 Valiant 200 Signet Convertible 170/
63 Dart, 225/
68 A100 Pick-up 225/
2006 Mitsu Raider Quad Cab (Dakota) Mopar 4.7L
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (My Mid-Lifer) 3.0L 24V