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| '63 pushbutton cable https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14151 |
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| Author: | Bing Kunzig [ Wed Aug 24, 2005 4:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | '63 pushbutton cable |
I need to replace the park/nutral shift cable i my '63 Valiant. Does anyone know where I might find one? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 24, 2005 8:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ummmmmmmm...Here y'go. Brand new ones. Don't know how that price compares to what AutoCables would charge to supply and ship from Australia. And Andy Bernbaum might have 'em in stock, too. His official year cutoff is '62, but '62-'64 A-bodies all used the same shift cables. |
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| Author: | killin5 [ Thu Aug 25, 2005 7:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm not sure what the issue is with your existing cable but here are some tips I received from Pat Blais when I was inquiring about purchasing a new cable for my 63 valiant. It is not often that a vendor tells you how to fix a problem instead of selling you a part they have. Either way, Pat would be a good resource. The contact info is listed below. Assuming you have not found the leak to be the PARK cable 'O' ring at the PARK cover or the PARK cover itself, proceed as follows below. Keep in mind that often the cover gets over-tightened (when trying to cure a leak) and can be warped, aggravating the problem. If the cover ends up being a problem, best to remove it and carefully "dress" it flat again with a file, or sandpaper on a piece of glass. Check it with a straightedge. Accurately finding the leak-point is primary. Sleeving the cable: 1. preferably use a length of 3/8" ID fuel hose that will go from where the cable enters the Torqueflite all the way up to the firewall (this makes an effective "standpipe"). 2. best to install the "sleeve" from the top; disconnect the cable at the pushbutton mechanism being VERY careful to only open the "pinch-clamp" that holds the cable just enough to free the cable. 3. attach a piece of mechanics wire, etc. to the free end of the cable about a foot longer than the 3/8" hose. 4. use aerosol silicone spray on the outside of the entire cable sheath (trim away any ragged sheath pieces first) and the inside of the 3/8" hose. 5. fish the wire through the 3/8" hose and pull the hose over the cable until it contacts and slides over the metal ferrule (cable end) at the Torqueflite. 6. use a small hose clamp to secure the hose on the metal ferrule. 7. re-attach the cable to the pushbutton mechanism, again being careful to only squeeze the "pinch-clamp" just enough to secure the cable. 8. insure that the re-installed cable is not going to contact the exhaust pipe. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks; let me know if I can be of further assistance with parts or information. Pat Please note: PERSONAL or BUSINESS checks require 15 banking days to clear before shipping merchandise. Pat Blais Pat Blais Transmissions Seattle Specializing in 1960-1965 727 & 904 Torqueflites (1966+ also) ALSO NOTE: new email address tflitepatty@verizon.net |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 25, 2005 8:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yep, I've sleeved burnt cables, too. I use a similar technique, but I clean the cable with red-label BraKleen, then squirt Mopar RTV Silicone inside the split-lengthwise piece of hose. I push the hose onto the cable, twist and slide it to spread the silicone, then tighten the hose clamps (but not too tight). THe silicone helps ensure a leakproof fix. |
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| Author: | dart63 [ Sat Aug 27, 2005 10:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My cable had the end broken off at the park lever. I got a new one from Imperial Services which took care of the problem. Be prepared to wait awhile while they make a cable, these things are not off the shelf. If you run into any problems at the tranny end of things, Pat Blais carries the seal and cover for the parking cable. Kevin |
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