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New guy here, be nice!!
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14182		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  speedo1 [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 10:57 am ]
Post subject:  New guy here, be nice!!
O.K.,
I am looking for a power plant for my all MOPAR T-bucjet. I don't wan't a cookie-cutter rod. So, I was thinking........ why not run a hopped-up Slanty in the sea of Chevies! My question is: I have access to these motors, most people give them away, what is the best vintage ( year) to look for? I plan on hopping it up, i.e. Cam, intake/carb, etc. Nothing crazy, about 200-225 HP. Should go nice in a 1600lb. bucket, plus, look cool/ different.
Thanks
Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 11:30 am ]
Post subject: 
Welcome! :D

There really is no bad year for a Slant motor. Cast crankers are every bit as good as a steel crank for what you want to do. The major change that affects interchangeability was the size of the crank pilot in '68, but other than that most every change is bolt on. (Oil pans, motor mounts, dampers, etc.) '81 and up went to hydraulic lifters, but they can easily be changed to solids. '75 brought the heads without the Hemi tubes for the plugs, but some like the tubes for the nostalgia look. :shock:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 2:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
Pre-mid-'76 engines all have forged cranks; mid-'76 and later have cast cranks. The two kinds of crank don't interchange, but whole engine assemblies do. If you're doing extensive buildup work and investing a lot of time, money and effort, start with a forged-crank engine.

'81 and later engines have hydraulic lifters for which camshaft selection is considerably less.

'75 and later heads use taper-seat spark plugs in which fewer options are available.

All of these are fairly minor points unless you're building a race engine (though my favorite extralong-electrode spark plugs cannot be had in the taper-seat design, and the '75-up heads are heavier.). For physical interchangeability, as Slantzilla points out, the only thing you need to watch for is the crankshaft flange counterbore and torque converter centre nose diameter change (grew by 1/4" for the 1968 model year). Any year engine can be used with a pre-'68 automatic by means of a 1/8" annular adaptor ring. Using an early engine with a late trans can also be done, but is considerably more involved.

Jim Linder, of LinderTech, runs a 0.040"-over 225 with dual Holley 1920s on an Offenhauser #5041 twin-1bbl intake in his '18 Dodge bucket, the Krylon Special:

Image

I really think he needs a set of Dutra Duals to make that straightpipe exhaust sound righteous!
Author:  6PIN [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 2:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
A beautiful job on that Dodge bucket!

Here's a link to pics of another slant 6 powered roadster project: http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ds6@sb ... /my_photos

This is Old6rodder's Cassandra, set up with sidedraft SU carbs.
Author:  speedo1 [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
That is one SWEEEEEET Bucket!! SO, if I figure right, I think I'm looking for a 225 between 68-75... sound about right?
P.S. I love the dual carb. manifold!! 8)
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 3:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
The twin 1bbl intake is still made by Offenhauser (that's why I included the part number!). But y'know, if you want something truly wild and different, send me a PM. I have a couple triple-SU setups on the shelf that I'm not going to use after all...

Somebody also ought to put up a picture of Tex Smith's XR6...anyone got that '61 Hot Rod magazine to hand? If not, Here's a page about it.

'68-'74 is a fine year range. What kind of transmission are you looking at using? Because y'know, you could put in a pushbutton automatic...
Author:  Old6rodder [ Sun Aug 28, 2005 9:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
My apologies 6PIN,

Some recent computer problems (mostly my own fault it appears) have rendered that link out of date. The new one's in my signature, just click on Cassandra when you get there.

OK, I just checked out the old link and have to eat my words, it's working now. Hadn't been for a bit and I've no idea why not or why now. This thing's still smarter than I am and I suspect it just likes to zing me on occasion. Ain't paranoia fun? :roll:

Speedo1, when you get the project started how 'bout sharing some pictures? There're more open car types around than you might think. I have one buddy who's just started on a slanted '24 Overland tub.
Author:  Matt Cramer [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 5:06 am ]
Post subject: 
I've got a copy of a recent issue of Street Rodder where they reviewed it. Practically the only reason I'd ever touch that magazine - every (and I mean every) other feature car in that issue used a Chevy V8. Unfortunately, I don't have a scanner, but I can answer any questions about it.
Author:  6PIN [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 7:51 am ]
Post subject:  Old6rodder's roadster
O6r, after I posted the link here, it occurred to me that I hadn't asked your permission first.

Thank you for being cool about it.

I just really love that roadster...will try to show some restraint in the future, though :oops:

And SlantSixDan, you're just full of surprises. I had no idea you were into this sort of thing :shock:
Author:  Slant6Ram [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 8:52 am ]
Post subject:  My own rod
73-75 is prime for cast crank and hardend valve seats, but 68-80 can be good motors depending on luck of the draw, and what maintainance has been done or prior rebuilding.

Now the rest is gonna be topic theft:

I just picked up a 70 goodie bar truck frame as a base for a rod project. Slant six of course. Looking at these pics of rods, I'm not sure this frame is a valid place to start. The straight front axle and 8 3/4 rear looked like cherry stuff, but 4 wheel leaf spring suspension and truck frame looks a little heavy now. Trucks are ultra wide, I think I measured 56" between the backing plates. Too wide?

I'd need to shorten the fame and then lower the engine/ transmission mounts to improve the center of gravity. Then I'd remove a leaf from each pack to soften the ride. Even with the heavy truck frame this would still be a feather compared to a full car body.

Is this all wrong from the start? I might really need someone to talk me down. Should I scrap the heavy truck frame and start from scratch or begin work on the goodie bar rod.
Author:  speedo1 [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 10:43 am ]
Post subject: 
I guess it all depends. I built my own bucket chassis: $55.00 worth of rect. stock, a chop saw, levels, squares, and a Mig welder. A couple of hours time, measure 4 or 5 times, and bingo... new chassis. If you have four wheel leafs, what about some sort of half-leaf via an old tracker? The skies the limit!!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 
If it's got a slant-6, I'm probably into it. What I'm not into is the endless stream of Mopar-based hot rods that have a shabby or fraud V8 dropped in (yawwwwwwn).

Only thing I can't figure out is this: Jim Linder is widely known as the Fuel Injector Guru. So, erm, why's he got carbs on his slant-6 T-bucket...???
Author:  6PIN [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 2:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
If it's got a slant-6, I'm probably into it. What I'm not into is the endless stream of Mopar-based hot rods that have a shabby or fraud V8 dropped in (yawwwwwwn).

Only thing I can't figure out is this: Jim Linder is widely known as the Fuel Injector Guru. So, erm, why's he got carbs on his slant-6 T-bucket...???
Maybe the simplicity of the two carbs fit the theme better than injectors or TBIs would. Although a "stealth" setup could be made, with injectors installed in bungs welded to the undersides of the manifold runners, and the carbs could be gutted and used as throttle bodies...
Author:  Pierre [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
The inejctors (and fuel in the rail) would cook because of exhaust heat if you put them on the bottomside of the intake.

With my tbi setup and air cleaner on top of it, you can't tell its fuel injected. The one time I went to a car show, I took the air cleaner off when I opend the hood. Figured I better take off the air cleaner or one would ever know.
Author:  6PIN [ Tue Aug 30, 2005 2:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My own rod
Quote:
73-75 is prime for cast crank and hardend valve seats, but 68-80 can be good motors depending on luck of the draw, and what maintainance has been done or prior rebuilding.

Now the rest is gonna be topic theft:

I just picked up a 70 goodie bar truck frame as a base for a rod project. Slant six of course. Looking at these pics of rods, I'm not sure this frame is a valid place to start. The straight front axle and 8 3/4 rear looked like cherry stuff, but 4 wheel leaf spring suspension and truck frame looks a little heavy now. Trucks are ultra wide, I think I measured 56" between the backing plates. Too wide?

I'd need to shorten the fame and then lower the engine/ transmission mounts to improve the center of gravity. Then I'd remove a leaf from each pack to soften the ride. Even with the heavy truck frame this would still be a feather compared to a full car body.

Is this all wrong from the start? I might really need someone to talk me down. Should I scrap the heavy truck frame and start from scratch or begin work on the goodie bar rod.
I think it depends on what you envision for the project. If you want to build a fenderless roadster, probably the truck is too big a base. The frame might work for a big, open touring car with fenders. Or maybe one of those pickups with a big'40s cab, maybe a COE and a chopped up bed. You will be looking for bodies that nobody else is using, because they are building on smaller frames.
If you intend to build something with a huge engine, it will be easier on this frame.
You won't be able to build a traditional-looking rod on this base, because they usually show the frame as a part of their design. But you might make something different and cool out of it.
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