My '60 V200 is having some issues with starting hot.

If I leave it sitting for more than two minutes, I have to crank the engine for 5-10 seconds before it tries to catch. Then I give it gas and it starts, but rough, and there's a cloud of black exhaust that it snorts. The engine idles roughly for a moment and then smoothes out.

Again this is only if I leave it sitting after it's run hot. Were I to start it right away again, it would be fine. It's just leaving it sitting for 5+ minutes where I run into this issue. It's consistent.

What's the problem?

Thanks, in advance.

Make sure your heat riser is free to move, and isn't stuck in the "heat on" position. If it's been awhile since you went through the carb with a kit, do so or put on a new one if yours is leaky and worn.

'60 cars didn't have fuel filters from the factory. Since you'll want to add one, go do the Fuel line mod and it'll help a lot.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

As you can probably tell by now Dan, I'm a novice at most of the detail work. Good news is, I remember all the advice, once given it.

I've never taken apart my own carb before. Where is the heat riser, and how do I identify it? Do I need to take the carb apart before I can see it?

So, as long as the riser is not worn and is moving freely, excess gasoline that spills into the bowl in the carb won't boil because of the heat and create hard starting? Is that it?

Also, a fuel filter was installed as soon as the car was driveable and the carb was cleaned shortly thereafter, so I think I'm covered there.

OK. Here's my standard reading list. Obviously substitute your own model and year for the factory service manual. Do get all three books and read them through.
In the central "collector" area of the exhaust manifold, below the intake manifold. See thread.
No, because it's not part of the carb.
Almost. If the heat riser is stuck in the heat-on position, it'll heat up the carb and boil it like a teakettle, loading up the intake manifold and cylinders with raw gas and making it hard to start.
Actually...probably not. The 1960 (first-year) carburetor has a fair number of "issues" that cause driveability problems. The fast-idle cam is one of them, and the fuel inlet needle is another. It wasn't rubber-tipped in '60, and therefore floods easily. Of course, you may not have the original carburetor after all these years (all the more reason to get those books!).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. Now that I know that flapper valve is a heat riser, I should have thought of it before. The manifold is new and the riser valve is also. Turns freely and comfortably. I haven't watched it under hot conditions but will soon.

Evan

FYI 2790 Cubic Centimeters =170 Cubic Inches

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"Former Owner" of '65 Barracuda, 225, Auto, MP 2bbl intake, MP cam, Dutra Duals. Presently Moparless.

How many cubic feet is that?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

.09838 cuft
.73593 gallons

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Since this is engine related, I moved it to the Engine forum.