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so what would be the best way to get rid of the points in my car. in the past i have always used DUI www.performancedistributors.com and they are awesome. they have the coil built into the cap, and they only require a single 12v wire running to them. anything like this available for the SL6?
No, there isn't—take a look at the cramped space on the underside of the "slant" where the distributor lives. There's no space for that giant GM HEI distributor cap and coil housing assembly; it'd hit the side of the block. That's all the "DUI" is, is just a GM HEI top-of-the-distributor grafted onto lower distributors for various non-GM engines. (not "grafted" so much as custom distributor housings). There's no reason to use anything other than a Chrysler distributor. They're well-designed and well-built. Again, the only difference between a distributor pulled out of a '73-up slant with single pickup coil and vacuum advance, and the distributor in Mopar Performance P3690789 kit, is the advance curve. Neither is optimal as received, both require optimization. As with carburetors, starters, alternators, engines and brake cylinders, I do not recommend wasting money on the "remanufactured" junk you get at the parts stores. Better options: Buy a new street-type distributor off eBay (they are almost always available), buy a new MP distributor from MP, or buy an almost-new MP distributor from me!
(Seriously, I have one I'm not using, send me a PM if interested).Modules: Nothing really wrong with the design of the Mopar module. No difference between the one that ships with P3690789 and the regular street units, except the color of paint on the modules. There've been an uncomfortable number of reports of early/frequent Mopar module failure lately; reports are that these are now "outsourced" (MBA word for "cheap and nasty from China) by Mopar. If you want to run the Mopar type module, get a NAPA Echlin or a Standard BlueStreak instead.
The GM HEI module (same one used in that "DUI" you've been using) is a better performance option for a couple of reasons: It eliminates the ballast resistor, which gets rid of a potential failure point and allows the plug gaps to be opened up by 0.010" over the stock Mopar setting (this means 0.045" plug gaps), which contributes to better running and driveability. It's also more compact than the Mopar module, making it easier to carry a spare. NAPA Echlin TP-45 will be in stock and on shelf and not expensive.
Coils: Whatever you want. I generally use an MSD Blaster, which works well with the Mopar or HEI module and fits in the stock coil bracket. If you want for some reason to get rid of the stock coil bracket, you can use an
external GM HEI coil from any 1988 or newer Chev Caprice or clone, with any engine. Coil looks like this
(Standard-Bluestreak DR37X shown) and uses a mounting bracket, which you should also get. May as well also get a few inches of wire off the plug-in.
Spark plug wires: From Magnecor.
Spark plugs: Depends which head you're running, '74-down or '75-up. For a '63-'74 head, the trick plug is NGK ZFR5N without the ring gasket. Same plug for '60-'62 heads, but with the ring gasket. Not many options for the '75-up heads.