I have this stuff:
http://pacbrake.chargedmultimedia.com/c ... 2a02aa147c
Do you think it would be a good idea for the heat riser thing?
I would think they are for somewhat similar conditions
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| Heat riser-open when turned clockwise? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15219 |
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| Author: | phogroian [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Heat riser-open when turned clockwise? |
Looking at the riser control control from the front of the engine, is it open when turned clockwise and closed when turned counter-clockwise? Mine seems a little balky, and there is no spring tension in either direction. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Clockwise: Heat on. Counterclockwise: Heat off. When cold, should be spring loaded into the "heat on" position. Give it a few shots of Mopar manifold heat control valve solvent p/n 4318039 (renamed "rust penetrant" and probably now superseded to a new P/N). This stuff is not the same as liquid wrench or any other regular penetrant. |
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| Author: | phogroian [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 9:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Dan. It was too stuck to figure out which way was open. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 10:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How much is it supposed to move????????? Mine's not stuck, but seems to float somewhere in between (this was after about 15 minutes city driving/idling with outside temp about 65) |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 10:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: How much is it supposed to move?
A little over 90°.Quote: ????????
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote: Mine's not stuck, but seems to float somewhere in between
Possible broken thermo spring
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It does move 90 degrees (did try with my fingers when it was hot) Spring isn't broken, and is currently holding the valve fully clockwise. When valve was floating, the spring was also away from the stop. When revving the engine, the valve did move more counter-clockwise. Looks like the valve opens with exhaust flow and the counterweight. The spring then closes it when the spring is cold. I previously thought the spring would open it up too. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The spring never forces the valve into the heat-off position; that's the counterweight's job. The early (pre-'71, rectangular) counterweights will hold the valve in heat-off once it's warmed up. The later ('71-up, round) counterweights will float, tending towards heat-on at idle even when the engine is hot. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: The spring never forces the valve into the heat-off position; that's the counterweight's job. The early (pre-'71, rectangular) counterweights will hold the valve in heat-off once it's warmed up. The later ('71-up, round) counterweights will float, tending towards heat-on at idle even when the engine is hot.
Hmmmmmmmm..... mine's definitely square, but it floats..... I did just find this in the manual: "With the engine idling, accelerate momentarily to wide open throttle. The counterweight should respond by moving counterclockwise approximately 1/2-inch and return to its original position." Which makes me believe they should all float. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 8:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
"With the engine idling, accelerate momentarily to wide open throttle. The counterweight should respond by moving counterclockwise approximately 1/2-inch and return to its original position."
That applies when the thermo spring is cold and still loading the counterweight into "heat on". Once the thermo spring is hot, the counterweight should be in "heat off" and stay there—not float—on the pre-'71 manifolds.Note that over time, the thermo spring can lose its thermal sensitivity so it fails to uncoil/relax with heat. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 8:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The spring was relaxed and the end was about 1 inch from the the stop. I could move the valve open more until the spring touched the stop, then keep pushing until valve movement stopped altogether. |
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| Author: | Rust collector [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have this stuff: http://pacbrake.chargedmultimedia.com/c ... 2a02aa147c Do you think it would be a good idea for the heat riser thing? I would think they are for somewhat similar conditions
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Never heard of it, never used it...I like the Mopar 4318039 stuff. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Dec 03, 2005 4:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok with engine really warmed up, valve is fully counterclockwise. |
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| Author: | NewSlanter [ Sun Dec 04, 2005 12:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Anybody tried grinding the round counterweight to hold it heat-off when hot? Once the engine is warmed up, I don't see the point of idling heat-on. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Dec 04, 2005 12:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've thought of that very idea, taking a chunk out of the round counterweight to make it work like the old rectangular one. It'd take either cutting apart some round counterweights, testing the spring tension of the thermo spring, and making weight calculations to figure out how much to grind away so it'd work in both directions. If you get this wrong, either the valve won't stay in heat-off when hot, or it won't return to heat-on when cold. The point of heat-on-at-idle was to pass Federal emission certification tests. |
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