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Gas tank vent nipple leaking at the weld
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15225
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Author:  textoad1 [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 6:49 am ]
Post subject:  Gas tank vent nipple leaking at the weld

The vent nipple (pardon the expression) is leaking on my 74 Scamp gas tank. Is there something I can do short of dropping the tank and having it welded or brazed or whatever? Has anyone had this problem and succesfully fixed it? Is there a glue or epoxy that holds up to gas or some other seal that would work. Yesterday my son said it leaked a lot when he filled it up but stopped after a little while. I guess I could tell him not to fill it all the way but that doesn't really fix the problem.

I pulled the rear wheel and filled the tank with a gas can to find the leak and I can see it spewing right from the nipple. I can wiggle the nipple and see that it's loose.

Thanks in advance.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 8:21 am ]
Post subject: 

Are you talking about one of the nipples on the fuel gauge sender (should be two nipples on a '74)?

Author:  mcnoople [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:19 am ]
Post subject: 

If it a nipple on the tank itself at the top of the tank don't fill it up. JB Weld holds up to gas if the metal is VERY clean before you apply it. If its at the sender as dan suggested you can replace the sender, epoxy, or remove the sender and solder it.

Author:  textoad1 [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 11:15 am ]
Post subject: 

It's the vent nipple on the tank itself. It's right above the sending unit brazed or soldered to the tank right above the seam. Since it's my sons car I would rather get it sealed up tight if possible because he has a way of finding every problem on this car. He would make a good beta tester. Also there is really no way to tell if your full or not until the gas comes shooting up the tube, which is another complaint I have for a different time.

Well maybe I should rant a bit. Does anyone make something to stop gas from coming all the way up the spout and spilling over? Seems like a floating ball stopper or something could be retrofitted.

Anyways my buddy here at work tells me the only way to fix that nipple is to resolder it which involves draining and removing the tank and either taking it to a professional ar doing myself. He recommends cleaning out the tank with soap and water, cleaning the offending joint as best as possible, filling the with exaust gas from a running car and using a large soldering iron and resoldering the joint. I would prefer having someone else do it. What do you guys think?

Author:  textoad1 [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 11:28 am ]
Post subject: 

I found a radiator shop that will repair it, acid wash it and reset the nipple for $65. Doesn't seem to unreasonable. Now I have to drain it and get it off the car. Fun Fun.

Author:  mopar_nocar [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 1:10 pm ]
Post subject: 

you don't have to pull the tank!!

the whole unit will come out with the tank in the car.

1) use a sipon to remove the gas to about 1/2 a tank.
2) jack up and support the front of the car (high enuff so you can work)
3)us a blunt chisel and a small hammer to turn the keeper ring so the whole unit will pop out.
4) take the unit to a sink and clean it with soap and water
5) using a propane torch and acid core solder braze the tube in place.
6) reinstall.

sb

Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 1:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

One word:

JBWeld.

Why make life difficult?

D/W

Author:  emsvitil [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 2:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Well maybe I should rant a bit. Does anyone make something to stop gas from coming all the way up the spout and spilling over? Seems like a floating ball stopper or something could be retrofitted.


You must have missed this thread

:?

Author:  emsvitil [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 2:25 pm ]
Post subject: 

I would actually try smearing some silicone glue around the joint (make sure it's fuel-safe)

With the little bit of give the silicone glue has, it won't crack and leak again.

Author:  textoad1 [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 3:29 pm ]
Post subject: 

mopar_nocar it's part of the tank not the sending unit.

Dennis, will JB Weld work where gasoline gets on it? I would love a solution that simple.

Thanks

Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 3:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Dennis, will JB Weld work where gasoline gets on it? I would love a solution that simple.
Absolutely. I have even repaired pinholes in the bottom of tanks with JBWeld that has lasted forever. As stated above, make sure it is plenty clean and dry (make sure the gas is below the level of the leak, and don't let it slosh around until the JB cures), "Trichlor" (some brake cleaners) or denatured alcohol is good for cleaning and drying the affected area. Use "old school" JBWeld, not the "JB Quik" for this repair.

Hint: Mix the resin and hardener then let it stand for about 20 to 25 minutes, else it'll all run off the repair area, and you'll be cleaning it up from the garage floor and reapplying it. :idea:

D/W

Author:  75dartcustom [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 4:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

and i thought i was going to have to have mine brazed. thanks all. what type of store carries jb weld?

Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Thu Dec 01, 2005 5:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
and i thought i was going to have to have mine brazed. thanks all. what type of store carries jb weld?
Wally World and just about everywhere you can think of.

D/W

A note before anyone jumps in here: Braze (or solder) is the technically best way to perform this repair. JBWeld makes a satisfactory, long-lasting repair if done carefully and correctly, and it can be done with the tank in the car in a lot of cases.

Author:  textoad1 [ Mon Dec 05, 2005 9:01 am ]
Post subject: 

JB Weld did the trick. Thanks everybody.

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