I just read http://flag.blackened.net/mopar/slant63.html

I quote:
All electronic ignition systems, both standard and multi-spark, require a special voltage regulator PN P3690732 when installed on the 1969 and earlier cars. This is a constant output voltage regulator and, if it is not used, the control box will be burned out.

I have not seen any mention of this anywhere for street use. My truck already has an electronic regulator.

I read up on this a little, and it seems that the info came out of a racing manual.

some say that the constant output VR is bad for anything but all out racing. does anyone have info on that. I just got the the Mopar electronic ignition conversion kit that I'll put on during semester break. I also want to get a Multiple Spark Controller, either Mallory or MSD, in January.

I'm concentrating on the right side mods and updates:

New heater core.
Change thermostat from 160 to 180.
Look at putting clutch fan and radiator shroud on.
flush and inspect radiator
Alt. Belt
Check Alt to see if adequate for elec ignition
Relocate oil filter.
Adjust valve lash and replace spark plug tube gaskets.
Convert to electronic ignition.
Add multiple spark controller.


Later left side mods:
Replace old leaky Carter carb
Bigger exhaust

More Later
Front brakes and bearings
Rear brakes and bearings

I have one more year of school that I want to travel a little. I want the D100 road worthy.

_________________
1967 D100 /225

Some of us catch on slow, and some of us don't.

As long as you have an electronic voltage regulator you're fine.


The problem is when changing a points ignition to an electronic ignition and leaving the point-contact voltage regulator installed. The non-smooth operation of a point-contact regulator may screw up the electronic ignition

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

A electronic voltage regulator, should be used with any electronic ignition, but, It is not necesary to use the "Mopar" electronic voltage regulator. Most VR's sold at an auto parts store, today, are electronic. If the regulator is only about 1/2 inch thick, it is electronic. If it is about 1 1/4 inches thick, it is mechanical. There are some electronic regulators made in the "thick" cases for the "restorers".

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

More badly-written BS from the Mopar book, which somebody copied word-for-word and preached as gospel.

Electronic ignitions work fine with points-type regulators as long as the regulator is working correctly. They work fine with electronic regulators as long as the regulator is working correctly. They can experience problems if either kind of regulator isn't working correctly.

I don't like P3690732. Overpriced, not very good, and you have to hassle with that dumb blue coating they apply to it, otherwise it doesn't ground and you fry stuff. Voltage regulator options have been covered pretty extensively in past threads.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Some years ago I installed an electronic setup on a 69 Satellite with a 360 and used the recommended p3690732 and it kept the amp guage pegged to the plus side,I took it off and replaced it with points style VR and it worked well for years.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Exactly. To avoid this, you have to scrape the blue gookum off the mounting tabs.
Ayup.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, the "P" regulators were junk. I went through 3 of them on one car in less than a year, until I got smart and put on an aftermarket part that was half the price and has now been on the car for over 10 years.