More questioins.
What is the best way to acheive"electrical grounding". I don't see where on the alternator to ground the wire harness for the upgraded wire harness from SSDan? Am I meant to use a bolt in the hole next to where it says grd, if so what kind of threading for the bolt? There isn't a bolt already there and I don't want to hack up another alternator.
Third or fourth question... this new alternator had two places where it says FLD. However only one of them has a male receptacle sticking out. The other side seems to be a reserve side??? Is this a problem considering I was told to get a single field alternator?
Lastly, how tight should the new belt be?

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'64 valiant convertible 225/6

The alternator grounds through the case so anything bolted to the case will be grounded. All chrysler alternators have two mount bolts for the tensioner, but the bracket setup only uses one of them leaving you with one bolt hole with nothing threaded into it. If you have a rebuilt alternator from a parts store (please say its not from autozone) they have a tendency to rebuild dual field cases with single field guts hence the extra FLD cast into the housing with no terminal.

Big thread Here. Smaller threads Here and Here.
That's a very good way to do it.
Short self-tapping screw of the correct diameter.
Common on rebuilts, as McNoople writes. '70-up alternators used two field terminals. That rear housing you've got there can be used with the '70-up or '69-down alternators, depending on the terminal configuration. Don't worry about it.
Approximately 1/4" to 1/2" deflection when pressed firmly with your thumb at the midpoint of the top span of the belt.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll be working on finding a way to tighten the belt a bit as I have about an inch or so of play.

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'64 valiant convertible 225/6

mcnoople it is not from autozone its a Napa rebuild with the dual field as you described.
"The alternator grounds through the case so anything bolted to the case will be grounded"

I can't find any self-tapping screws that are short and fat enough. Can I really just use any bolt on the case itself and does the mounting bolt work as well? It is sure the easiest and best fit with the good size ring that comes on your kit Dan.
Thanks again!

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'64 valiant convertible 225/6

Yeah, if you really can't make the "GRD" hole work, then the mounting bolt setup you've got will work OK.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I now have replaced the alternator w/ belt and the voltage regulator. I didn't replace the battery because I think it is relatively new. It must have gotten pretty discharged but not unsalvageable I hope.
With the old battery reattached, I jumped the car and let it run a few minutes. The alternator indicator was at 3/4 tank while the car went through its warm up of probably 12-1500 rpms for a few minutes. I then turned the car off and let it sit for about 30 min. It started right up.
It is showing about 3/4 tank at the same 12-1500rpms.
What do you think...is this battery gonna die again...is the alternator gonna fry from trying to recharge the depleted battery???

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'64 valiant convertible 225/6

I have no idea what 3/4 of a tank has to do with an alternator.......... (other than you have plenty of gas to charge up the battery)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

My guess is that he means 3/4 scale on the alternator gauge. That would be rather high if the battery is fully charged and functional.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

1) Your alternator is not a battery charger. Using it to charge up a dead battery is a great way to kill it, or at least shorten its life. Use a battery charger to charge the battery, and the alternator to keep it charged.

2) There is no such thing as the alternator gauge being at 3/4 "tank". The only gauge that indicates the capacity of a tank is the gasoline gauge.

3) Running enough current to charge the battery through the car's wiring on a constant basis is a great way to stress and possibly damage the wiring and the ammeter.

Go get the battery charged up by someone (service station?) with a charger.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

When the alternator needle moves to the right as in "3/4 tank" ( I realize this is not a tank) this means that it is charging quite a bit???
Where should the needle be at 1000 RPMs :
with a new battery?
with a dead battery?
If my battery was actually dead would it have started the car right up 3 times in an hour?

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'64 valiant convertible 225/6

Yes.
Just slightly to the right of centre, assuming only minor electrical loads.
Well over towards "C".
"Dead" in this case means "discharged".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Prior to the new alternator etc. with the engine running at idle the needle was pretty much centered. When I hit the brakes or applied any electricl load it would move slightly left of center. If I had the stereo, headlights and brake lights on it was halfway between the left and center or 1/4 tank if you will.

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'64 valiant convertible 225/6

when i have my radio on mine goes to the right...as should yours because you are drawing more current....right?

The ammeter represents current to/from the battery, not total current flow from alternator.

At low engine speeds, you'll see the needle deflect to the left because the alternator doesn't have enough output for all current required. The battery is supplying the needed current.

Once speeded up, the needle will go to the right, indicating that the battery is being recharged. Once the battery is recharged, the needle should stay in the center, as the alternator is supplying the current needed to run everything

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes