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Speaking of instrument clusters...Dan?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15436
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Author:  64 Convert [ Sat Dec 17, 2005 4:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Speaking of instrument clusters...Dan?

As the resident lighting expert, what do you suggest to improve old dash lighting?

Is there a paint available to the masses that will restore the light distribution qualities inside the instrument wells? I know regular white paint doesn't do it.

How about a brighter bulb for the old style twist-lock sockets?

Author:  dakight [ Sat Dec 17, 2005 5:37 pm ]
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I was wondering the other day if the high intensity LEDs could be adapted to that purpose.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Dec 17, 2005 5:53 pm ]
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The first thing to do is to replace your headlight switch; the dash light rheostat gets dirty and corroded with age, which increases resistance in the line to the dash lights.

There are brighter bulbs available for both the bayonet ("twist lock") and later all-glass wedge-base dash bulbs. You have to be careful when picking them, though, for it's easy to melt the blue plastic bubbles over the bulbs that give the greenish cast to the dash lights. One option is to remove these blue bubbles altogether and install amber or colorless bulbs in the dash light sockets (nobody ever said the dash light has to be green, or that it has to be colored at all). If you have to have blue/green light, there are "bulb condoms" available that are made out of high-heat silicone.

LEDs generally don't work well in an application like this. Most LEDs put out light in one direction only: Straight forward in a tight spot. Bulbs, on the other hand, radiate light in all directions (a spherical pattern of light output). The dash illumination works by bouncing the light from the bulb off a bunch of different surfaces back there behind the gauges, to give a diffuse, even, nonglaring light. Installing LEDs instead generally results in dim, spotty light that doesn't get the job done.

Let me know if you want bulb numbers, sourcing, etc.

Author:  64 Convert [ Sat Dec 17, 2005 6:47 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yes, please...I would like the part numbers and source for bulbs and "condoms". Since I have late model Mopar radios and additional gauges in both vehicles, I'd like to match their blue/green color to make all the dash lighting the same.

Thanks.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Dec 17, 2005 6:54 pm ]
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Email tech@candlepower.ca for some 3886x bulbs (bayonet push/twist high-output). Order green bulb condoms by description.

The new bulbs are 6w, versus the original bulbs' 4w rating, so make sure your headlamp switch is new.

Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Sat Dec 17, 2005 9:00 pm ]
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hijacking a lil bit here.... how much load those reostat can take? I keep melting them.... I have 10 lamps on the dash plus the ignition key bulb, the ashtray bulb and the auto trans bezel.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 8:32 am ]
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Something's the matter...you shouldn't be melting them. That's a normal quantity of bulbs, so should be a normal load unless you're running some kind of massive super high wattage bulbs. OR maybe the quality of your locally-available headlamp switches is...not sufficient. OR you've got an extra load (e.g. partial short) on the circuit that's not making itself immediately apparent.

Author:  '74 Sport [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 8:57 am ]
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Good information, and very timely, since I am about to complete Aaron's dash customization. I know you often refer to NAPA parts, so do they offer a headlight switch that's any better than a MOPAR replacement available through my Dodge parts house (or are they no longer in stock)?

Jerry

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 10:31 am ]
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NAPA's fine as long as you get an Echlin switch, not their "economy" (cheap cräp) "Mileage Plus" line.

Standard-BlueStreak is also fine.

Author:  64 Convert [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 11:57 am ]
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My favorite on line parts store, Rock Auto, doesn't list either Echlin or Blue Streak. Their brands are Standard Motor Products and Airtex. Is this "Standard" the same company you suggest?

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 12:24 pm ]
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Standard, yes. Airtex is some MBA's labelling company. It's an old name; they used to make pumps (fuel, water, etc.). I would not buy an "Airtex" headlamp switch; it's a rebrand of someone else's switch, almost certainly made in you-know-where.

Author:  64 Convert [ Sun Dec 25, 2005 10:46 am ]
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Just for everyone's info... I ordered a voltage regulator from Rock Auto. The VR was made in the USA, but the Standard brand light switch I received was made in Taiwan. The appearance is good and I guess we will find out about the quality.

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