hey hey its nice to be right once in a while!!!! well not at the fuel pump but a loose connection allowing it to suck air.. so close enough
It happens so rearely in my life.
anyways congrats on solving your problem
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| Fuel delivery problem https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15448 |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | Fuel delivery problem |
I am having trouble getting my 170 started. There is a fuel delivery problem. Everything is new so the problem could be anywhere. The fuel tank has been replaced with a fuel cell in the trunk. The cell has three connections a fuel return which I blocked off, a vent which has a metal line plumbed to outside the trunk and left open, and the fuel pickup which is plumbed via metal line and fuel hose to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is an aftermarket replacement for the stock fuel pump. After cranking with a fully charged battery until it was getting weak the following symptoms were observed. The fuel line at the carb is dry. The fuel line at the fuel pump input has some liquid but mostly vapor. A pulse of air pushed back down the fuel line toward the cell gives bubbles in the cell. So the fuel pick up is below fuel level. Do stock pumps need to be primed to keep from cavitating? Any advice what to check next? |
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| Author: | HyperValiant [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Afew things to try; Hook a vacumm guage to the inlet side of the pump to see if its actually sucking(I have had new pumps that were bad). I always fill the float bowls on the carb through the vent tube with a syringe to prime the carb. I did this with the first start on my 170 H-P and it started within the first couple of cranks but I still have the original tank and pickup. Use a vacumm pump or just siphon the fuel to the pump,maybe it just needs a little help to get where it needs to go. Hope this helps. HyperValiant |
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| Author: | Ice Titan [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The pump isn't installed backwards is it? |
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| Author: | flight704 [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
might also want to check your ruber hose connections at pump.. i have old hard dry rotted fuel line let the pump suck air// not saying yours are old and dry rotted but a loose connection will allow it to suck air. good luck |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks |
I pressure checked the system - found a loose flare connection. It would let air in so the fuel never got pulled up out of the fuel cell. And after that was fixed got fuel to the carb right away - so at least in my case the pump did not need to be primed. |
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| Author: | flight704 [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
hey hey its nice to be right once in a while!!!! well not at the fuel pump but a loose connection allowing it to suck air.. so close enough It happens so rearely in my life. anyways congrats on solving your problem |
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| Author: | HyperValiant [ Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Glad you got it fixed-----Now let us know how that H-P 170 runs!!!! HyperValiant |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Thu Dec 22, 2005 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Still doesn't run - darn |
Looks like electrical and fuel is okay - But she still won't fire up. I need to get back into the motor and verify my valve adjustment. And if that is okay - Then I need to measure the cam degree stuff again. Total cylinder pressure is only 90 lb. should be like 120-140. My guess is I got the cam in retarded instead of advanced. But I want to be sure before I go tearing into the motor for the third time. I did not have a degree wheel - I attempted to install the cam with a split timing and advanced 2 degrees. If the dial indicator measurements show the cam is out of time - I will be trying DDs install the cam with the engine in the car. That is if it works in the 61 Valiant trim. I will also be making or buying a degree wheel so I can do it with an othodox procedure this time. I get to work on it again in a week - Is it possible to refit the timing cover without redoing all the oil pan gasket? |
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| Author: | HyperValiant [ Thu Dec 22, 2005 8:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I must have got lucky because mine started without much drama at all but I degreed the cam out of the car with a Moroso degree wheel.AS far as the timing cover goes ,Yes you can remove and install without changing the pan gasket. Keep after it it will fire soon. HyperValiant |
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