OK, hopefully we can keep this on topic this time.

I am looking for what would normally be called an "un-useable" aluminum block. One that has too much corrosion at the top of the bores to seal. It should hopefully be here in California, or maybe Nevada, Oregon, Arizona - close enough to drive and pick it up.

This is for my own research project, that's why I want a block that is already "beyond repair". Yes, I know Doug has already done a lot on this, and Doug if you're reading this I'd like to discuss some ideas with you, so please PM me with some contact info.

Thanks,
Marc
www.marcmedina.com

So, no one has a junk block to sell?

They're not exactly common...!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

still looking..............

the ones i have seen were good blocks they want like 1200 dollars for them. I race at a lot of MOPAR events that have parts vendors. I have never seen a junk aluninum block for sale but i guess there is one somewhere. Thanks Ron Parker










Hey Has That Thing Got A Bagel Bamboozler In It

$1200 is way, way out of line. Between double and triple out-of-line. Those guys that haul stuff to the events are lookin' for suckers with more money than brains. Sometimes they find them, and sometimes they don't.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

while back spring 2005-- guy had a valiant wagon in SD? it was supposed to have an aluminum block-- dart 270 & I were contacting him-- do not know whatever happened-- I'll try to recollect the members name -- good luck!!!

I got one here in Sweden, if you pay the trip, I can deliver.
Seriously it would be a lot of them over there, I have had 3 of them over the years.

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23

maybe if you cut it up into little pieces, shipping wouldn't be so bad............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

It would be a lot of work to weld it together.

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23

Try Hidden Valley Auto Parts
21046 N Rio Bravo Rd
Maricopa, AZ 85239 - 2704
(602) 252-2122

I saw several of them in 1962 Valiants when I was there a couple of weeks ago.

I'm not sure they know how to tell the difference.

As a side note, the aluminum engine is awful to live with. It puts trememndous heat out through the block. At least in the Phoenix, Arizona area you'll melt your battery case. Belts & hoses will need to be replaced every few months. I speak from experience.

But, have fun with your project. After, all it's all about the dream!

--Walt Jackson
1963 Dodge Dart GT convertible
(originally equipped with an aluminum block)

Have your credit cards ready when you call—if you buy from HVAP, you will come close to maxing out all of them.
Ummm...that's a really interesting opinion. I don't know what caused your battery case to melt or your belts and hoses to fail regularly, but it wasn't the aluminum engine, for there is not significantly more heat rejection through the aluminum block than there is through the iron one, and the aluminum engine is not "awful" to live with. I've owned five of them over the years, two of which were in daily service for better than a decade, in air-conditioned cars being operated in very hot climates, and I never had any of these bizarre heat problems you're talking about. Batteries, belts and hoses had nice, long lives...perhaps because I make a habit of buying the best available quality.

The first principle of statistics: "Correlation does not imply causation". You had an aluminum-block engine, and you experienced odd heat-related component failures. That does not mean the one caused the other.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Believe me, the car had the best of everything.

Before I changed out the engine, I took temperature readings from a various points in the engine compartment. The difference was dramatic. This was 20 years ago. I took notes for later reference, but cannot locate them now.

Maybe the fact that the car had the MoPar Cool-Aire air conditioning system contributed to the premature death of the belts & hoses, and the melting of the battery case.

--Walt Jackson

I've got the Mopar Cool-Aire system in my '62 Lancer w/aluminum engine. The '60-'62 engine bay is much more cramped and difficult to cool, and I have no choice but to run the stock small 4-blade fan (no room for anything more). I don't have melted belts, hoses or batteries.

I have no doubt that you're remembering your heat-related problems correctly. One wouldn't tend to forget things like melted batteries. But they did not happen because you had an aluminum engine. Your particular engine might've been running too hot for any of several reasons, but to assert that the aluminum engine is "awful to live with" or that these kinds of weird overheat problems are intrinsic to the aluminum engine just ain't factual.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My 62 Lancer Alum runs cool as a cucumber, the times I have experienced heat at strange places issues on any slant Iron or Alum has always lead back to one thing.....manifold leaks....the heat can travel and be very focused.

Staying on topic however I don't know the whereabouts of any junkers.

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63 Valiant 200 Signet Convertible 170/
63 Dart, 225/
68 A100 Pick-up 225/
2006 Mitsu Raider Quad Cab (Dakota) Mopar 4.7L
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (My Mid-Lifer) 3.0L 24V