As the resident lighting expert, what do you suggest to improve old dash lighting?

Is there a paint available to the masses that will restore the light distribution qualities inside the instrument wells? I know regular white paint doesn't do it.

How about a brighter bulb for the old style twist-lock sockets?

I was wondering the other day if the high intensity LEDs could be adapted to that purpose.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

The first thing to do is to replace your headlight switch; the dash light rheostat gets dirty and corroded with age, which increases resistance in the line to the dash lights.

There are brighter bulbs available for both the bayonet ("twist lock") and later all-glass wedge-base dash bulbs. You have to be careful when picking them, though, for it's easy to melt the blue plastic bubbles over the bulbs that give the greenish cast to the dash lights. One option is to remove these blue bubbles altogether and install amber or colorless bulbs in the dash light sockets (nobody ever said the dash light has to be green, or that it has to be colored at all). If you have to have blue/green light, there are "bulb condoms" available that are made out of high-heat silicone.

LEDs generally don't work well in an application like this. Most LEDs put out light in one direction only: Straight forward in a tight spot. Bulbs, on the other hand, radiate light in all directions (a spherical pattern of light output). The dash illumination works by bouncing the light from the bulb off a bunch of different surfaces back there behind the gauges, to give a diffuse, even, nonglaring light. Installing LEDs instead generally results in dim, spotty light that doesn't get the job done.

Let me know if you want bulb numbers, sourcing, etc.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, please...I would like the part numbers and source for bulbs and "condoms". Since I have late model Mopar radios and additional gauges in both vehicles, I'd like to match their blue/green color to make all the dash lighting the same.

Thanks.

Email tech@candlepower.ca for some 3886x bulbs (bayonet push/twist high-output). Order green bulb condoms by description.

The new bulbs are 6w, versus the original bulbs' 4w rating, so make sure your headlamp switch is new.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

hijacking a lil bit here.... how much load those reostat can take? I keep melting them.... I have 10 lamps on the dash plus the ignition key bulb, the ashtray bulb and the auto trans bezel.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Something's the matter...you shouldn't be melting them. That's a normal quantity of bulbs, so should be a normal load unless you're running some kind of massive super high wattage bulbs. OR maybe the quality of your locally-available headlamp switches is...not sufficient. OR you've got an extra load (e.g. partial short) on the circuit that's not making itself immediately apparent.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Good information, and very timely, since I am about to complete Aaron's dash customization. I know you often refer to NAPA parts, so do they offer a headlight switch that's any better than a MOPAR replacement available through my Dodge parts house (or are they no longer in stock)?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

NAPA's fine as long as you get an Echlin switch, not their "economy" (cheap cräp) "Mileage Plus" line.

Standard-BlueStreak is also fine.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My favorite on line parts store, Rock Auto, doesn't list either Echlin or Blue Streak. Their brands are Standard Motor Products and Airtex. Is this "Standard" the same company you suggest?

Standard, yes. Airtex is some MBA's labelling company. It's an old name; they used to make pumps (fuel, water, etc.). I would not buy an "Airtex" headlamp switch; it's a rebrand of someone else's switch, almost certainly made in you-know-where.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Just for everyone's info... I ordered a voltage regulator from Rock Auto. The VR was made in the USA, but the Standard brand light switch I received was made in Taiwan. The appearance is good and I guess we will find out about the quality.