| Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| subframe connectors https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15522 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | volaredon [ Mon Dec 26, 2005 7:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | subframe connectors |
I have my Volare stripped bare in a rotisserie. as far as body twist,etc, would it be better to put my newly made subframe connectors in now or once the car is back on its own 4 wheels? |
|
| Author: | slantvaliant [ Mon Dec 26, 2005 8:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would wait until it is a roller, and you have the ride height set. |
|
| Author: | mcnoople [ Tue Dec 27, 2005 5:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you install it while the body is supported by anything other than the suspension you run the risk of welding the body flexed in a different manner than the normal body flex. It could cause such fun conditions as a pull/drift under hard acceleration. |
|
| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Tue Dec 27, 2005 6:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
...speaking of sub-frame connectors, does anyone know of any place that makes a set ready to go on a C-body? I am planning to build my own, but it'd be nice if I could just buy some. Thanks, D/W |
|
| Author: | Bohmer2 [ Tue Dec 27, 2005 7:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dennis, have you tried US Car Tool, they might have them. I know they have B/E and supposedly have other body styles as well. They make ones that are weld-ins that are contoured to the floor pan. Brian |
|
| Author: | volaredon [ Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
On the C body sub connectors, try Auto Rust Technologies, out of Rhode Island. The same company that makes the frame caps and stuff. They had em for my Volare but were like $129, which was $124 (plus shipping!) more than it cost me to make mine. About 3 hours of cutting, tack welding, and trial fitting before welding them together solid, 79" of 1-3/4" square tube, 1' of 1-1/2" angle iron, about 1' of 1-1/2" bar stock, empty Coke case (cardboard for template of existing rear frame contour to cut the square tube to match to), and of course my Millermatic 185 Mig welder. That materials list covered BOTH sides. The $5 or so was for Sawzall blades and a 4-1/2" grinding disc for my Milwaukee grinder. The way my car is now supported in the homemade rotisserie, it is supported at the front cowl (door hinge mount points), all 4 leaf spring mounts, tied in by angle iron thru the quarter window holes, and 2, 45* (approx) supports from there thru the rear deck speaker holes to the rear subframe rails, along with being "surrounded" by angle iron about even with both door hinges, I built this setup to the car, and bolted it in before I cut the drivers outer rocker off, and the drivers front framerail, too. Neither of these have been put back on yet, the framerail is tacked to the trans x-member and vise gripped to the radiator support. Why is it that I have so many "buddies" that say "call me anytime you need a hand, I owe you one", when I do things for them, but when I try to call them to pay back some of these "favors", they can never come over because THEY are "busy"?? Been trying to get a hand since the summer to help me do all the"X" measurements, etc, and requsite "tweaking" to be sure I got my new framerail set right before I weld it in. Counting on THEM, I'll be 80 by the time this car is done. (I'm almost 1/2 way there now) Topic for another discussion. Anyway, I have easier access to weld these connectors in as the car is in the jig laying up on its side (passenger side down) than once its back "upright" so I thought it would be a good time to put em in. |
|
| Author: | volaredon [ Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
sorry for the double post.... musta fat fingered the "submit" |
|
| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 8:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
A/R/T has 'em. Thanks, dudes! D/W |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|