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Prepping for Suspension upgrades--what to measure now?
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Author:  NewLancerMan [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 1:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Prepping for Suspension upgrades--what to measure now?
Ok guys, here's my winter plan for the lancer starting this week:
  • SBP factory discs
    New U/LBJ and control arm bushings
    new .89 tbars
    new 7/8 or 1 1/8 swaybar
    LCA stiffener plates
Since these changes will completely throw ride height and alignment out, what things should I measure beforehand? Is the best means of measuring ride height from top of the wheel well to the ground, or from the rocker panel to the ground, or... =)

Should I take some pictures of the cam bolts?

Thanks in advance, don't want to get it apart and realize I forgot to record something crucial for a few months down the road.

MJ
Author:  sandy in BC [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 2:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would set the ride height(approx)where you want it after you replace the parts. Take it to an alignment shop and let them earn their money. It costs $39.95 for a 4 wheel alignment here.

Ride height can be measured as per FSM on LCA.

I trailered my car to the shop after redoing the front end becuase we live 22 miles from the shop and I didn t wan to hurt my tires.

You can throw on some junk wheels and tire s to get you to the shop.

None of this is crucial because you WILL get it aligned after( to some fancy new specs....oops thats another thread)
Author:  slantvaliant [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 3:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Should I take some pictures of the cam bolts?
Yes. And more.

Take photos of everything, from different angles and distances, with and without wheels. When in doubt, take a photo. You might even want to put on masking tape notes before taking the photos. "Up", "Front", "Driver's Side", etc. I've never regretted taking a technical photo - and I have regretted not taking a few.
I hope you have a digital camera - it is really nice to be able to flip through the images moments after you take them, and to print them any size, any time.
Also, tag and bag all nuts, bolts washers, gizmos, bushings. Don't throw ANYTHING away until you've finished the project and have some good miles on it.
Author:  75 slanted swinger [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 5:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
Depending on the condition of your front end you may wnt to replace the bushing in the LCR. This would be the time to do it because you already are planning on doing the torsion bars. Also if you haven't already, it might be good idea to take her down to the car wash and pressure wash the front end so you don't have work in lots o grease. Good luck!


jeff
Author:  NewLancerMan [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
None of this is crucial because you WILL get it aligned after( to some fancy new specs....oops thats another thread)
yes we will visit that one soon ;) I dont have any junk wheels since my 13s will no longer fit once I put the discs on, so I'm searching around for a part nearby that can do it. That's why I sort of wanted to get a feel for "just about ok" to drive a few miles to the shop. Having never messed with any kind of alignment adjustments, I wanted to be cautious. Thanks for the ride height info on measuring. I figured I was going to drop it a little bit, and I think I saved some info Lou posted about the range he found to be acceptable.


SV, thanks for the good advice. I do have a digital camera, and use it quite frequently. In fact, Santa ordered a new fujifilm camera for me today and its specialty is macro, low-light and high shutter speed. Even does movie at 30fps. Ah I digress--lots of picture to be taken! I'll try and do a little writeup for all of us first-timers, the newb's guide written by newbs. Exciting reading for sure.

Thanks guys!

MJ
Author:  Valianator [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
You can easily "eyeballign" it well enough to get to the alignment shop when you're done with the suspension work. Here's what I usually do:

Jack the car up on one side by the LCA, as far out on the arm as you can. Pick it up just enough that the tire barely clears the ground.

Then reach in around the wheel and adjust your camber- turn the steering so that the front tire is in line with the rear tire, then go out in front of the car and sight the front tire vertically with the rear tire. Adjust as nessasary until they match vertically. Try to keep the front cam a little more "out" and the rear cam a little more "in" if you can so the caster is a bit positive.

Repeat for other side. Try to get the relationship of front cam/rear cam similar to the first side- doesn't need to be perfect as caster is not a tire wearing angle, you're just trying to keep it from pulling too hard on that first drive.

Then break out the tape measure and set your toe-in. Just measure off of the tire's tread ribs (make sure you use the same rib!) And dail in just skosh (1/8" or so) of toe-in. If you're careful you can get the steering wheel pretty straight.

Now you can drive the car to the alignment shop. It'll probably pull some to one side, as you can't eyeball the caster setting very well. But you can get there without it being too squirley or damaging the tires. I've done it this way plenty of times without any ill effects.

Remember: when you pick the car up to adjust your camber, the jack has to be toward the outboard end of the control arm, and the tire just barely clears the ground. That way if something would happen to the jack, the car would only drop a fraction of an inch. We need to keep all our /6 freaks alive and well.

Good luck!
Author:  NewLancerMan [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
ty brian! I've written those nice directions down!

MJ
Author:  VDART [ Wed Jan 11, 2006 4:06 am ]
Post subject: 
If your doing all that-- replace the lower control arm bushing-- as mentioned before-- (hopefully you have access to a press) also if someone around you has later style 13" they might fit your disc's. I had some 69---13" & they would fit the 10" drum but the older 62's -13's rims would not-- these drums are the non-finned style-- I was quite shocked at the difference.

Good luck-- & don't worry too much about your measurements before you start-- get them close on the new parts & let the tech do the exact adjustments. You should inform him/her it has new parts so they can plan to spend some time on your intial set-up.

Also use a shop with an old timer--someone who has worked with the t-bar suspension.
Author:  vynn3 [ Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Just to reiterate 75 Slanted Swinger's comment, one of the biggest regrets I have is not degreasing/pressure washing the front end. I mean, I'm used to grease and dirt when working under the hood, but we're talking INCHES of thick, black gunk I had to dig through in some places, which ended up on the clean garage floor, leaving an indelible mark for future homeowners... :)

VM
Author:  NewLancerMan [ Wed Jan 11, 2006 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey guys,

yes, I have new bushings, and access to a press, so i'm good to go there. Since the control arms are coming off, a friend in the area with a machine shop has graciously offered to blast the arms before we do the welding, so it all should be good.

The engine compartment (except the section of the control arms closest to the wheels) was pressure washed 6 months ago when I had the motor out. Its been mostly repainted, so I'm thinking a quick dousing before removal, degreasing and blasting and its all like new. Oh the fun!

But, it should all work out great. I'm crossing the fingers. Thanks for all the tips. I'll take some pics soon and post them since my website is finally back up again.

MJ
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