Hey guys, been looking around on here for a while but never actually posted anything, so i think its time i finally did.
I was thinking of swapping out my 170 ci slant six for a later 225 with the revised heads and exhaust manifold. I want some decent power so i can maybe eembarrasssome civics at my school and stuff, however, there is an inherent problem because
A) My Valiant is, for the most part, a daily driver
B) Living in Canada gets really cold
so this means no headers, and keeping the heat riser would be very beneficial. I guess that also means i can't have the hyperpak manifold and im ni'm sure if the clifford or offy 4 barrel manifold will work with the heat riser.
Anyhow, with that outta the way, this is my plan:
- ported and polished heads with bigger valves, milled so i get around 9.5:1 compression
- super six intake with a holley or demon 2 barrel carb
- dutra duals
- a decent performance cam with good idle
- windage tray
- electric fan
- oil cooler
That's my plan, but you guys are much more experienced at both engine building and slant six performance than i am, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a good basic plan. if I were you I would stick with the Super Six intake and two barrel carb unless you start getting really wild with the cam and valve sizes. This way you can keep the carb base heat on the exhaust manifold and you can also use the pre-heated air inlet provision of the Super Six air cleaner.

What is your rear axle ratio? Transmission is stick or auto? Year of Valiant? Emmissions equipment? Electronic ignition? Don't forget that re-curving your distributor advance curve uis a great way to pick up mileage and performance.

It sounds like a good Canadian build. Its close to what we use....everyday.
For a daily driver just use a Carter BBD on that Super 6 manifold. On the exhaust side get a 2.25 diameter pipe all the way to the back. Add a turbo muffler.

Your compression ratio of 9.5 is a tad high for a daily driver.....just a tad.

We used Chev valves and springs...= cheap

I would pass on the oil cooler and windage tray.

Think about lower gears and an OD transmission.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I'm actually not sure what the rear axle ratio is, something i should find out. Maybe you guys could tell me?
It's a 1962 Valiant with the Pushbutton Auto
Also, i forgot to add to my list that i was gonna do a Pertronix kit, thx for reminding me.
Sandy, what do you think a good compression would be? And, just out of curiousity, why pass on the oil cooler and windage tray?
Haha sorry if i seem to be asking a lot of questions guys, but i'm really kind of a newb.
Thanks,
Allen

I'm kinda new here too but in my research I found that my 170 CI pushbutton auto trans 1963 valiant has a 3.23 rear while stick shift models came with 2.96. I'm not sure about 1962 models.

I don't think you'll be winding up a 225 where a windage tray will benefit you. You may need an oil cooler if you're commuting across the desert at 100 mph every day. Probably not necessary in Canada.

I must say that our years cars didn't offer a V8 so unless we are capable of fabrication and a lot of work, the 170 - 225 engines are the options. Though I've often dreamed of hopping up a straight six in a David vs. Goliath way, if you want performance and your car offered a V8 that's where I would put my money. If you want to beat the Hondas I think the slant 6 is just begging for a turbocharger. Easy (relatively) manifolding, one or two barrel carbs, already low compression, lots of room for plumbing under the hood. I don't know about head sealing issues or the availability of strengthened internal engine components for the non-performance engines (forged crank, forged pistons, o-ringed heads, ARP rod bolts, etc. etc.). There again fabricating skills and $$$ are required. Oh yeah, and there's those 9" drum brakes and tiny (weak)rears. A lot to think about. JMHO. BTW, I owned a 1984 Colt Turbo daily driver that I put a 30 HP Nitrous Oxide System on, turned the boost up to 14 psi, removed both catalytic converters, installed Yokahama A008 shaved radials on the front and ran a best of 14.48 @ 100.68 mph in the 1/4 mile. That was a 1.6 liter engine and 1900 pounds of car.

From wich chev engine the valves and springs Sandy?

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Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

I completely agree that turbochargers are the way to go, however, there lies a little problem in that i don't have much money, intercoolers and turbos cost lots of money, and junkyard turbos kinda scare me cause i don't know how they've been treated in their life.
If i go with a blow through setup, then i would only need the turbo then i heard that carb icing is a real problem and you won't be able to start your car in the morning if its below like 5 degrees C.
So i would have to go with a draw through setup, and with that i think i need an inintercoolernd a place to put it, which is a huge problem because of limited grille space.
I don't know, maybe I'm complicating things. But thanks for all your suggestions so far guys. BTW, if any of you haven't read Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, it's a really informative book, even if he doesn't really know how to write coherently.

If you are on a budget,,,,just go 225.... Super 6 , mild cam , 2.25 exhaust, electronic ignition and a 60 thou head shave. You will get 90% of what you are after and still have a good reliable rice eater.

We used Chev 3/4 ton truck Valves from a 350....I have tons of them lying around 1.72 intake 1.50 ex. I had my head machined for them to fit....but for a beginner or budget challenged guy I would drop this part. I needed to do a head and had these parts.

The windage tray and oil cooler are just not applicable to your build or needs.

Where in Canada are you?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Your info is a little backwards. You can't reasonably intercool a draw through you can only intercool a blow through setup.

Oops, yeah, you're right mcnoople. Sry about that.
Sandy - Located in Edmonton, Alberta. Going up to Powder King next weekend, is Burton near there?
Does anyone know if this would be a good cam for me? I understand the definition of duration and lift, but i don't have any real world knowledge of it so that might be a problem.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp-K-c ... dZViewItem
Thanks for the help guys.

Burton is far from Powder King. We are between Whitewater,Red, Silverstar, Revelstoke , Big White. I live near CMH Nakusp, and Valhalla Prov Park.

Have fun at Powder King,,,I hear wonderful things about it.


<Backside 540 Rodeo....switch>

That cam is ok,,,,but with higher CR I would go at least 262 - and most 268 duration.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Wich is the biggest valve you can put in a 225 without mod the head or with minor and cheap modding?

_________________
Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

the biggest I have found is 1.88 for intake, and for exhaust 1.5. I found this out by guinea pigging a head up at the local machine shop before I had mine worked on.

I am not the only one who found it either;

http://www.225.ca/tech/s6rn04.htm

read a bit farther down and you'll see he found the same thing out.

READ: this is not cheap and does require modification, but it is the biggest I am aware of anyway.

I don't think any head work is cheap unless you are doing it yourself.

I opened up the chamber around my Chev valves...I think it is pointless to install bigger valves without doing it.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Well Sandy, I want to do a pointless valve change ´cause is very, very, very and very expensive to mod the head, and I don´t have tools and knowled to do it by myself.

So wich brand is the biggest valves I can put without modding my head?

_________________
Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971