Hi guys, I'm new to this forum and I have done a bit of searching on this topic, but I could only find it in fragmented and somewhat cryptic pieces.

I have a '73 Dart Sport 318 car with front disc brakes, BBP, and an 8.25 rear end. I want to swap all of these components into my '65 Valiant 225 to help it to handle and brake a little better. I understand that I should get a new adjustable proportioning valve for the dual master cylinder, but I was wondering what the compatibility of the rest of this equipment would be? (Is it primarily a staight swap? I am guessing not.) Keep in mind that I am a poor 19-year-old college student (go Zags!) and that high-dollar conversions are not an option right now.
Also, would I be able to use the driveshaft from the Dart? I really need to lose my ball and trunnion unit, as it already has a tear and is pushing out a little grease.
Sorry if this is a run-on post, and thanks for any and all info, help, suggestions, etc.

Everything you have should bolt right up to your 65, including the master cylinder and proportioning valves. The rear axle is a straight swap (but you may need to have your driveshaft shortened), and you will need to swap all of the hard brake lines up front, the master cylinder, the proportioning valve, the upper control arms, the spindles, and the brake hardware.

You won't be able to swap the driveshaft.

Search the site. Both the rear axle swap and the front disc brake swap are topics that have been covered before.

Good luck!

Everything reed said plus new axle u-bolts (or at least the 8.25" originals) and the lower ball joints.

You won't need a new prop valve, but you will want to replace the rear wheel brake cylinders with smaller 13/16" bore items to solve the chronic premature rear lockup problem disc brake A-bodies had. The smaller-bore rear cylinders swap right in and do a better job of correcting the brake balance than a (more expensive) adjustable prop valve.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Reed doesn't he just need the lower control arms for the larger ball joint? I thought he could just leave the uppers alone. Is there a difference with the later year uppers too?

Thanks

MJ

The lower control arms can stay, but he will probably need to get new lower ball joints for the later model car (I may be wrong here, it has been several years since I thought about a disc brake swap on an A-body). If I remember right it is the uppers that need to be swapped due to the difference in ball joint size.

As far as u-bolt for the rear axle go, I always found it easier to swap the rear axle and rear spring as a unit and avoid the nightmare of dealing with those u-bolts. The Dart springs will be newer and most likely stiffer than the valiant anyway.

I did the swap on my 65 in october the lca stays the lower ball joint has to be from the disc car.

I agree with dan about the 13/16 rwc. I can stand on my brakes nose dive the car and not have the rears lock. But will a 13/16 rwc work with a 10" drum from a later bbp car. I thought the shoe didn't line up with cylinder.

The lower balljoints should match the knuckles. The older LCA's work fine. My '64 Valiant now has knuckles, balljoints, and UCA's from a '74 Duster.
BTW, new balljoints for the early A's are more expensive than those for the '73-'76 A's.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Yep! Direct bolt-on as long as you get the correct cylinders. You can't use the rear wheel cylinders from a 9" brake. Use one of the following:

NAPA-United 37696. Raybestos WC37696. Wagner F113704. ACDelco 18E268.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks greatly for all of the prompt responses and advice.
I think that I will start on this project next weekend.